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  • Turmeric For Skin: A Hero Ingredient You May Not Know About

    Turmeric For Skin: A Hero Ingredient You May Not Know About

    By Yasmeen Naseer

    My maternal grandmother - nani - was a walking talking encyclopedia of what in the Indian Subcontinent we call desi totkas, i.e., home remedies for common ailments that have been handed down from generation to generation. I vividly remember a time several years ago when a heavy footboard fell on my mothers foot leaving it black, blue and swollen and causing so much pain that she couldn’t hold back tears. My nani warmed up some desi ghee - what’s known as clarified butter in the West - and added some powdered turmeric to it to make a paste which she applied to my mother’s foot before wrapping a cloth bandage around it. While the bruising and swelling took some time to subside, the pain went away almost instantaneously. Turmeric, the Golden Spice, has relatively recently started making its presence known around the world in everything from curries to juices and lattes especially in health and medicine circles. The spice however, has been used medicinally for over 4,500 years, especially in the Indian Subcontinent. Ancient pots that contained residues of turmeric, ginger and garlic were discovered near New Delhi dating as far back as 2500 BCE and in 500 BCE, turmeric emerged as an important part of Ayurveda, an ancient form of holistic healing or alternative medicine that has its roots in India and is still practiced in the region today. The value of turmeric in Ayurveda is reflected in the fact that Ayurvedic literature has over a 100 names for it which translate to things like, “as beautiful as moonlight,” or, “one who is victorious over disease.” In Ayurveda, turmeric is used in the treatment of several concerns from chest congestion and skin diseases, to the healing of wounds and bruises. As the world has advanced, we’ve begun to scientifically investigate the impact of these old medicaments. Do they really work, or do we fall prey to the placebo effect when we use them? Mounting scientific evidence suggests that turmeric’s reverence in Ayurveda is not misplaced. Evidence has also accumulated that backs up the reduction in pain and inflammation that my mother experienced with my nani’s turmeric and ghee bandage as studies now demonstrate that turmeric is at least as effective a painkiller as ibuprofen, but without the associated toxicity. Globally, as interest in health and wellness, disease prevention and alternative medicine, has grown, turmeric has been gaining popularity for its manifold health benefits. These include powerful antioxidant properties that protect healthy cells, especially those in the colon, from carcinogens and help to destroy cancer cells before they’re able to spread to other areas of the body. Turmeric is also beneficial for individuals with anxiety, arthritis and metabolic syndrome - a cluster of conditions including obesity and high blood sugar, pressure, and cholesterol, that increase your risk for heart disease, stroke, and type II diabetes - and has been shown to help lower cholesterol and maintain healthy blood lipids, so much so that it is now available to consume as a tablet. Turmeric for skin In addition to its popularity in wellness circles, turmeric has also gained popularity in skincare circles where once again, it’s been leveraged for a while in the Indian subcontinent perhaps most famously, as an ingredient in ubtan: a powdered concoction for the skin, made with things like gram flour and turmeric, that is mixed with rose water or milk to make a paste which is used to scrub the body for skin brightening benefits. Ubtan has traditionally been used by brides in the region and I know from experience that while extremely messy, it works. Research is also starting to back up turmeric’s purported skincare benefits and has shown that curcumin, the compound that gives turmeric its yellow colour, may be used medically in the treatment of several skin diseases. Curcumin is thought to reduce inflammation in the body by down-regulating inflammatory targets, and inhibiting inflammatory cytokines: signalling molecules produced by our cells that promote inflammation in the body. These characteristics make curcumin a suitable candidate for treating skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis that are characterized by a derangement of the inflammatory response, and the results from initial studies that leveraged curcumin in their treatment have been encouraging. In a four-week trial, 150 individuals with atopic dermatitis were given a herbal extract cream that also contained turmeric. All of their symptoms associated with atopic dermatitis - erythema, scaling, thickening, and itching - significantly improved. In another study, 40 men experienced an improvement in psoriasis with the use of a topical alcohol gel that contained 1% curcumin while in an in-vitro model of psoriasis, curcumin significantly improved skin barrier function by up-regulating the production of involucrin and filaggrin, both proteins known to regulate the skin barrier, the function of which is impaired in diseases like eczema and psoriasis. These are only two several studies that have demonstrated that curcumin has the potential to be a promising psoriasis treatment especially since no currently available effective treatment for the condition is without strong side effects. With its known anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects, curcumin also makes for a natural contender in the treatment of acne and has been shown to inhibit the growth of the bacterium responsible for acne vulgaris in-vitro. A study that divided 53 acne patients into four groups, and tested both ingested and topical turmeric over four weeks, exhibited promising results and found that the group that was given both the oral supplement and the topical cream, showed the greatest improvements. Curcumin also protects the skin by quenching free radicals and reducing inflammation. It helps wounds heal faster, improves collagen deposition and increases the density of fibroblasts - cells that secrete collagen - and blood vessels in the dermis. A hot water extract of curcumin on skin cells has been found to inhibit UVB-induced inflammation and increase the skin’s water content, suggesting that curcumin might be useful in moisturizing the skin and may protect cells from pollutants and toxins. Given that UV damage is the single biggest cause of skin ageing and that the density of structural proteins like collagen begins to decrease in our skin as we age, these findings mean that turmeric also holds promise as an anti-ageing ingredient. Curcuminoids are amazing given their incredible number of health benefits but what makes them even more special is that unlike several other currently available medications for the talked about conditions, they are nontoxic and don’t tend to have significant side-effects even at high doses. Their one limitation has to do with their low oral bioavailability but in skincare this limitation can easily be overcome by directly applying turmeric that has been properly stabilised in a skincare product to the required area so we can experience firsthand the marvels of the Golden Spice. Turmeric in our products: Resurfacing Face Wash Our Resurfacing Face Wash is a sulfate-free, luxurious cleansing cream formulated with turmeric, honey and exfoliating acids. It helps fight skin damage and pigmentation and lifts away dead skin cells for a brighter complexion, and softer, smoother skin. Hydrating Daily Gentle Shop Now Salicylic Acid Cleanser Shop Now Moisturiser Cleanser Shop Now

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  • Which One Of Our Cleansers Is Right For You?

    Which One Of Our Cleansers Is Right For You?

    By Yasmeen Naseer

    Several people have reached out to us to ask about the differences between our cleansers so I decided to summarise them in a blog. If you're not sure of why using a "good" cleanser is important, and how "bad" cleansers can damage your skin, I'd highly I'd recommend that you read this. I’ll start this post with a table that summarises key information about each cleanser and then discuss each one in a little more detail before telling you how to incorporate it into your skincare routine. If you still have questions after reading this, don’t hesitate to reach out. Hydrating Daily Gentle Shop Now Salicylic Acid Cleanser Shop Now Moisturiser Cleanser Shop Now Hydrating Gentle Daily Cleanser   What is it? Our Hydrating Gentle Daily Cleanser is a fragrance-free cleanser formulated without any active ingredients at a skin friendly pH of ~5. It’s sulfate-free and uses ultra-gentle, coconut-derived surfactants to dissolve grime and impurities without stripping your skin.These properties make it an excellent daily use option for all skin types and particularly beneficial for sensitive or sensitised skin as this skin type tends to have a compromised skin barrier - where the skin’s barrier is the topmost layer of the skin that functions primarily to keep irritants out and hydration in - and is unable to tolerate most active ingredients. It has a gel cream texture that’s mildly grainy due to the presence of finely ground oats. Oats are highly beneficial for helping to alleviate conditions such as dry skin and eczema. They are also valuable for sensitive skin as they help improve the skin’s barrier function. It also contains green tea extract, which is a rich source of antioxidants that help fend off skin damaging free radicals, along with allantoin and glycerin, which help soothe and hydrate. Who is it for? This product is for anyone and everyone. Simply put, it’s like the best friend you seek comfort from at night after tackling the stresses of the day. Just like you, your skin also deals with environmental stress: air pollution, UV radiation, and cigarette smoke, among other things. Our Hydrating Gentle Daily Cleanser helps your skin deal better with environmental stress by easily removing dirt, grime and pollution without damaging your skin barrier or irritating your skin. Bonus? It also removes light makeup. In addition to being suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, this product is also fungal acne safe, a condition that sufferers will know is tough to shop for. Usage directions and pairing This product will pair well with anything. To use, massage a dime sized amount into wet skin for 30 seconds to a minute and rinse off with cool to lukewarm water. Follow up with a suitable moisturiser while your skin is still damp, to lock hydration in. Butter But Better Cleansing Balm What is it? Our Butter But Better Cleansing Balm is a fragrance-free, rinse-off formula designed to easily but gently remove things like makeup and sunscreen, which don’t come off easily with water or water-based cleansers. It’s also perfect as: the first step cleanser in a double cleanse a makeup or eye makeup remover a stand-alone cleanser for dry or sensitive skin Rinse-off cleansing balms and oils like this one are our favourite kinds of makeup removers because of how gentle they are. They don’t tend to contain harsh surfactants and even heavy, difficult makeup comes off with a rinse - no pulling or tugging at your skin with cloth and cotton pads required. Our Butter But Better Cleansing Balm easily rinses off without leaving a residue. Who is it for? This product is also suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. The only exception is skin prone to fungal acne. If you have fungal acne, don’t use it as anything more than an eye makeup remover. Your best bet is a gentle, fungal-acne safe micellar water instead. Usage directions and pairing This product will pair well with anything. To use, scrape it off with the back of your nail and massage it into dry skin till your makeup has loosened - if you’re wearing makeup. Wet your fingers and massage some more till it turns milky. Rinse it off with lukewarm water. If you’re looking to double cleanse, follow up with the Hydrating Gentle Daily Cleanser for a gentle cleansing experience or one of the two exfoliating cleansers below - Salicylic Acid Cleanser and Resurfacing Face Wash - for a deeper cleanse. Don’t forget to moisturise at the end! Salicylic Acid Cleanser What is it? Our bestselling Salicylic Acid Cleanser is a cream cleanser formulated with salicylic acid a.k.a. BHA. Salicylic acid is a chemical exfoliant. This means that it gets rid of dead cells from the surface of the skin resulting in several benefits. These include a brighter complexion, relief from breakouts and a fight against the signs of ageing. In the world of chemical exfoliants, salicylic acid is unique in its ability to be able to penetrate deep within your pores to unclog them. This ability, along with its antibacterial and anti-fungal properties, make it an extremely effective agent in the treatment and prevention of acne, which includes blackheads, whiteheads, and pimples. Most salicylic acid formulas however, tend to be harsh and attempt to strip your skin, resulting in more harm than good in the long-run. Our Salicylic Acid Cleanser leverages gentle surfactants and combines them with grapeseed oil and honey to nourish and hydrate your skin, resulting in a formula that’s exceptionally effective, and gentle at the same time. Our current Salicylic Acid Cleanser is formulated with 1% salicylic acid and 2.5% glycolic acid. We’ve used higher salicylic acid concentrations in this formula in the past but over time have discovered that this concentration works as well as the higher concentrations, but without the associated irritation. Who it’s for and how to pair This product is suitable for all skin types, except fungal acne prone skin, but with some caveats: If you’re already using chemical exfoliants, carefully consider the addition of another one. Refrain from using multiple products containing chemical exfoliants in the same day to avoid skin irritation. While exfoliation offers multiple skin benefits - it’s my personal skin care holy grail - over-exfoliating can do more harm than good. If your skin is sensitive, introduce the product into your routine slowly. Instead of starting with daily use, start using the product 3 times a week, and slowly build up to daily use, only if your skin is able to tolerate it. No skincare product works uniformly across the board for everyone and despite our creamy formula, salicylic acid can still be drying for some people - usually people who already have dry skin. If you’re one of those people, you might want to try our Resurfacing Face Wash, which has a lower concentration of salicylic acid, instead. Lastly, keep chemical exfoliants away from your eye area and always wear sun protection, especially while using them. This is because despite their numerous benefits, they can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Usage directions To use, massage a dime sized amount into wet skin for 30 seconds to a minute and rinse off with cool to lukewarm water. Follow up with a suitable moisturiser while your skin is still damp, to lock hydration in. Resurfacing Face Wash What is it? Our Resurfacing Face Wash is a luxurious, sulfate-free cleansing cream formulated with gentle, coconut-derived surfactants that easily, but gently, dissolve grime and impurities without stripping your skin. It’s key active ingredients are 4% AHA - glycolic acid and lactic acid, and 0.5% BHA - salicylic acid. These acids are all chemical exfoliants. As previously mentioned, salicylic acid is able to penetrate and exfoliate within the pore, while AHAs only act at the skin’s surface. However, they have hydrating properties that salicylic acid doesn’t, which usually makes them the better choice for drier skin types. Collectively, these ingredients work to lift away dead skin cells and reveal a brighter complexion. They also help fight acne, congestion, pigmentation and skin ageing. In addition to chemical exfoliants, our Resurfacing Face Wash also contains some other wonderful ingredients: Turmeric: Among other things, turmeric has potent antioxidant properties and helps protect skin cells from damage. It also has healing and anti-ageing properties. Honey: Honey helps soothe and hydrate skin and inhibits the growth of microbes. Grapeseed oil and almond oil: These contain omega fatty acids and help keep skin supple and moisturised. Who is it for? This product is suitable for all skin types, except fungal acne prone skin, but with some caveats: If you’re already using chemical exfoliants, carefully consider the addition of another one. Refrain from using multiple products containing chemical exfoliants in the same day to avoid skin irritation. While exfoliation offers multiple skin benefits - it’s my personal skin care holy grail - over-exfoliating can do more harm than good. If your skin is sensitive, introduce the product into your routine slowly. You can even try starting with the Salicylic Acid Cleanser instead - it has a lower overall concentration of acids, and yes, can be used by people without acne as well. If you choose to start with this however, instead of starting with daily use, start by using the product 3 times a week, and slowly build up to daily use if your skin is able to tolerate it. Lastly, keep chemical exfoliants away from your eye area and always wear sun protection, especially while using them. This is because despite their numerous benefits, they can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Usage directions To use, massage a dime sized amount into wet skin for 30 seconds to a minute and rinse off with cool to lukewarm water. Follow up with a suitable moisturiser while your skin is still damp, to lock hydration in.

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  • Why Hyaluronic Acid Hasn't Been On Our Radar

    Why Hyaluronic Acid Hasn't Been On Our Radar

    By Yasmeen Naseer

    Hyaluronic acid is a humectant that’s usually marketed as being able to hold a thousand times its weight in water - which is debatable, but more on that later. It occurs naturally in the skin where it helps give skin its structure and keeps it plump and hydrated. Like collagen and elastin, hyaluronic acid also decreases in our skin as we age, making ageing skin more susceptible to volume loss, dryness, sagging, and wrinkles. In cosmetics, hyaluronic acid tends to be used in one of two ways: topically, or as in injectable - think dermal fillers, but in this post I’ll limit my discussion to its topical use. Two popular myths around its topical use abound: Myth 1: Hyaluronic acid is an exfoliant - people assume this because of the word acid in the name. Myth 2: Hyaluronic acid is an anti-ageing ingredient. Both are not true - hyaluronic acid is a humectant, i.e. a substance that helps the skin hold on to water. While essential for skin health when inside the skin, its molecules are too large to be absorbed when it’s applied topically. Topical application can at best, hydrate the skin’s surface so it appears plumper, and fine lines get smoothed over - but the effect is temporary. Smaller molecules of hyaluronic acid do exist, and while they are able to go relatively deeper into the skin, they don’t bind as much water. However, even low molecular weight hyaluronic acid isn’t able to penetrate too deep and only a small fraction tends to make it to the base of the epidermis. Unlike molecular weight hyaluronic acid, low molecular weights of the ingredient have also been associated with skin irritation, where the smaller the molecule, the greater the irritation. And they tend to be especially problematic if your skin barrier is compromised. A number of people who’re using hyaluronic acid and have a “good” skincare routine but still have skin irritation, see marked improvement once they cut the ingredient out. As Harper’s Bazaar nicely summarises: “Editors and Redditors alike have written about the redness and dryness they believe to be caused by topical HA. Instagrammers and influencers have eliminated it from their routines, with impressive results. The Mixed Makeup Facebook group recently held an “HA-free” challenge, with hundreds of comments detailing individual HA sensitivities and reporting improvements. One-star reviews of popular HA serums point to extreme irritation, beauty brands have issued usage warnings for their HA-laced products, one medical-grade HA ointment advises patients that “prolonged use may give rise to sensitisation phenomena,” and hyaluronic acid injectables are increasingly associated with late-onset inflammation. And here’s where things get really interesting. I mentioned in the beginning that hyaluronic acid is marketed as being able to hold up to a thousand times its weight in water. This is true of the version of the substance that’s in our bodies - owing to its very high molecular weight and large molecular volume - but there’s no evidence to prove that the hyaluronic acid found in cosmetics is able to do that. The Stanford Chemicals Company, a hyaluronic acid manufacturer, states that topical hyaluronic acid has limited ability to retain water, and this ability also depends on the size of the molecule in question. And according to the case files of a lawsuit filed against Peter Thomas Roth’s Water Drench line, “This outlandish claim [that hyaluronic acid can hold up to a thousand times its weight in water], is entirely unsupported by science. Published data from actual studies by real chemists establishes that hyaluronic acid binds a small amount of water, equivalent to about half the weight of the hyaluronic acid, or between 9 and 19 molecules.” What About Sodium Hyaluronate? Often when you find hyaluronic acid advertised on a product, the ingredients list contains sodium hyaluronate instead. Sodium hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid and is also found naturally in the body. In fact, in the human body, hyaluronic acid tends to exist as sodium hyaluronate. Sodium hyaluronate exhibits similar properties as hyaluronic acid. However, it’s more readily absorbed into the skin. It’s also less prone to oxidation and able to maintain a longer shelf life. Like hyaluronic acid, it’s also available in different molecular weights, where heavier weights deliver surface hydration and lower weights are able to go deeper into the skin. The Verdict Hyaluronic acid has become an extremely popular humectant. Anyone moderately interested in skincare is aware of what it is and it’s popping up in products everywhere. However, hyaluronic acid falls short of all the hype it gets for several reasons. Evidence doesn’t support the claim that when topically applied, it is able to hold up to a thousand times its weight in water. High molecular weight hyaluronic acid - the good kind - simply sits on top of your skin. There’s also evidence that hyaluronic acid results in skin dehydration. A 2018 study funded by Estée Lauder found that in humid environments it made the skin look temporarily hydrated but actually had the opposite impact and increased the rate of water loss through the skin. . Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can go deeper but is associated with skin irritation and the lower the weight, the higher the potential for irritation. A study in 2016 also found that low molecular weight hyaluronic acid also increased water loss by over 55% It’s not all bad news though and there is evidence to suggest that hyaluronic acid aids in wound healing. As a humectant though, I don’t believe that it’s the gold standard that it’s made out to be. Several other wonderful options exist. Here are some of my favourites: Glycerin. Glycerin is also found naturally in the skin. It’s an extremely popular humectant in skin care because it’s a fantastic moisturizer for all skin types, especially for dry, or dehydrated skin. It’s low molecular weight allows it to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin to provide lasting hydration. Glycerin also doesn’t pose any risk of irritation even at very high concentrations and in fact, helps soothe irritated skin and reduces skin redness. In addition to providing hydration, it strengthens the skin barrier and protects the skin against environmental stressors and harsh ingredients like sodium lauryl sulfate. It also helps facilitate the skin’s natural exfoliation process. Panthenol. Panthenol, or provitamin B5, is a humectant and an emollient - a substance that seals cracks in the skin, thus helping reduce water loss and blocking the entrance of irritants. Panthenol moisturises the skin and helps it stay soft, supple and elastic. It is also anti-inflammatory, aids in wound healing and helps repair the skin’s barrier. It is also extremely well tolerated and helps reduce irritation. Urea. Also known as carbamide, urea is naturally found in the skin and makes up 8.5% of the skin’s natural moisturising factor. Like glycerin, urea also has small molecules that are easily absorbed into the skin’s deeper layers of the skin and help provide lasting hydration. The level of urea in our skin also decreases as we age, making us more susceptible to skin dryness. Urea levels are also significantly reduced in dry skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis.Topically applied urea successfully tops up the skin’s own urea stores, making it an effective treatment for dry skin and eczema, and has also been shown to reduce the skin’s susceptibility to irritants such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, urea has also been shown to kill acne-causing bacteria and inhibit the growth of the fungus that causes fungal acne. If You Still Want To Use Hyaluronic Acid... If you still want to try incorporating hyaluronic acid into your routine, or if you’ve been using it already and feel like it works for you, make sure that you use it right. Don’t use it if you’re young and your skin is already functioning well. But if you’re not, and are looking to try it for skin hydration, here’s how to use it. Look for products that have a maximum concentration of 1% - in fact, lower concentrations of up to 0.5% might be better. Higher percentages can dehydrate the skin, as discussed earlier. Give preference to higher molecular weights and don’t use more than one product with the ingredient and avoid using it in dry climates. Apply it on damp skin and follow up with an occlusive moisturiser to seal in hydration. And of course, why try applying it topically at all when you can instead focus on trying to boost your skin’s own production of the ingredient. Evidence suggests that oral hyaluronic acid supplements help relieve the symptoms of dry skin while ingredients that increase skin cell turnover, like glycolic acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid, found in products like our Salicylic Acid Cleanser and Salicylic Acid Emulsion, also help increase the skin’s own production of hyaluronic acid. A lightweight, hydrating moisturiser formulated with five superstar humectants - including the three I discussed earlier: panthenol, urea, glycerin, honey, and allantoin. It’s a beautiful formula that simply disappears into the skin, locking in intense hydration, without stickiness or residue. It works exceptionally well for all skin types, including oily skin, and all seasons and if your skin is very dry, it can also be layered under more occlusive moisturizers. It’s also formulated without silicones, formaldehyde, phthalates, fragrance, essential oils, or anything else that irritates the skin, is suitable for fungal acne-prone, and sensitive skin. Click the link below to learn more. Hydrating Daily Gentle Shop Now Salicylic Acid Cleanser Shop Now Moisturiser Cleanser Shop Now

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  • Eczema And Dermatitis: Causes And Treatment

    Eczema And Dermatitis: Causes And Treatment

    By Yasmeen Naseer

    Content What Is Eczema? What Are The Symptoms Of Eczema? What Is The Difference Between Eczema And Dermatitis? The Different Types Of Eczema And Dermatitis What Causes Eczema? Other Effects Of Eczema How Is Eczema Diagnosed? Treating And Preventing Eczema What Is Eczema? Eczema is a chronic, non-infectious, inflammatory skin condition characterized by an itchy rash. It affects around 15% of children but most grow out of it and only 2-4% of adults have it. When they do however, adults tend to experience the more severe kind. People who have eczema tend to experience phases of more and less severe symptoms. Acute flare-ups can have a marked negative impact on quality of life. Extreme itching can make concentrating and sleeping very difficult, while visible rashes can lead to embarrassment. However, if you take good care of your skin and avoid triggers, it is usually possible to live a fairly normal life. For those interested in seeing images of eczema, check out this link by WebMD: A Visual Guide To Eczema. But bear in mind that the images are graphic and may require a strong stomach. What Are The Symptoms Of Eczema? Eczema tends to come and go in bouts. During a flare-up skin can become red and itchy - where itching is the main symptom and can often be unbearable - and sometimes develop blisters that break and weep. Over time skin may thicken and become dry, cracked and rough. What Is The Difference Between Eczema And Dermatitis? Dermatitis and eczema are both terms for inflammation of the skin characterized by red, dry patches and rashes. The terms are often used interchangeably and there is an overlap. Some specific conditions however, are known better by just one of the two names. Eczema and atopic dermatitis, for instance, are used interchangeably, but doctors generally don't substitute contact dermatitis for eczema and vice versa. Several different types of eczema and dermatitis exist, and it is possible to have more than one type at the same time. Some forms also cause blistering and peeling and most forms are chronic. Contact dermatitis is an exception that is caused by an allergic reaction to an irritant and can be prevented avoiding the irritant. The Different Types Of Eczema And Dermatitis Atopic Dermatitis Or Eczema This tends to be chronic and is characterized by an itchy, red rash. It usually appears around the joints and the neck. It tends to occur in bouts and symptoms include dry skin, flaky or scaly patches, itching, and less commonly, weeping sores. Contact Dermatitis Contact dermatitis is an allergic reaction to an irritant. Symptoms include a red rash that may itch, burn or sting. You may also develop liquid-filled blisters. Seborrheic Dermatitis This commonly affects areas with high sebaceous gland density such as the scalp, and is also known as dandruff. It has a scaly, dry appearance and may be caused by a reaction to the malassezia fungus that lives on your skin. Other symptoms include redness and rashes. It is also known as seborrhoea, cradle cap, sebopsoriasis, and pityriasis capitis. Perioral Dermatitis This is a rash in which bumps develop around the mouth. It is worth mentioning here as it has become more common with the rising use of face masks. If there's no infection, the simplest course of treatment involves being gentle with your skin to avoid further irritation and to allow the skin barrier to rebuild. You can do this by using a gentle cleanser, such as our Hydrating Gentle Daily Cleanser, and a moisturiser designed for irritated and sensitive skin, such as our Million Dollar Moisturiser. Other Types Of Eczema And Dermatitis dyshidrotic eczema nummular eczema follicular eczema stasis dermatitis (varicose eczema, gravitational eczema) hand eczema dermatitis herpetiformis pompholyx eczema neurodermatitis discoid eczema asteatotic eczema (eczema cracquelée) What Causes Eczema? Our skin has layers of which the outermost is called the epidermis. The epidermis is further subdivided and its outermost layer is called the stratum corneum. This is the visible part of the skin that protects the body from the outside world. The epidermis renews itself constantly as new cells from the lowest layer make their way up to the surface and dead cells are shed off. In people with eczema, the stratum corneum is damaged by an immune response and is unable to provide sufficient protection from external stressors such as irritants, allergens and germs. Eczema is also possibly caused by a mutation in the gene responsible for filaggrin production, where filaggrin is an essential protein that decomposes to form the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF). This results in a poorly formed stratum corneum that is more prone to water loss and more permeable to irritants that can illicit an immune response. 30-40% of people who have eczema have an allergic type and also tend to have other more severe skin problems, hay fever and allergic asthma. Their immune system has a tendency to overreact to allergens such as dust mites and pollen, and certain foods such as milk, eggs, nuts and fish. Blood tests that can detect antibodies in the blood are able to diagnose these allergies. While genes play a major role in the development of eczema, some external factors are thought to be at play as well. These include pollution and increased hygiene - based on the observation that children with several siblings, or a dog, have a lower probability of developing eczema. This is possibly because they are exposed to germs at an earlier age resulting in a better trained immune system. The skin can also be irritated by non-allergenic environmental factors such as rough fabrics, cigarette smoke and extremes in temperature. Other Effects Of Eczema Staphylococcus aureus is a type of bacteria that is commonly found on human skin. While usually harmless, it thrives on broken skin and can cause an infections in eczema skin making the condition worse. Staph infections - characterised by redness, weeping, and sometimes, by the formation of yellow crusts - cause eczema to spread more quickly, and make healing difficult. They usually require treatment with antibiotics. Inflamed or cracked skin also facilitates the spread of the herpes virus. Herpes usually affects the face and is characterised by small blisters filled with clear fluid that burst after a short period of time and leave behind crusts. Skin infected with herpes may also feel sore and the virus also results in a fever and tiredness. If you have herpes, it is important to see a doctor. Lastly, while scratching is a natural reaction to itching, it is essential to avoid this as it can make eczema worse and lead to complications. How Is Eczema Diagnosed? Eczema is diagnosed by doing a physical exam that rules out other possible conditions like psoriasis. It is sometimes confused with seborrheic dermatitis, particularly in infants. Seborrheic dermatitis however, rarely tends to itch and generally clears up on its own after a few weeks or months. For allergic eczema, an allergy test may be done via blood or skin pricks. Blood is tested for specific antibodies that the body produces in response to allergens. These however, are of limited use and aren’t a good idea unless you have good reason to believe that allergens may be affecting your eczema. Treating And Preventing Eczema While contact dermatitis can be avoided by avoiding the irritant responsible for flare-ups and taking an anti-histamine when flare-ups occur, eczema risk is otherwise mostly genetic and studies have shown that little can be done to prevent it. Some research however, suggests that breastfeeding children and consuming oral probiotics have a preventative effect. The WHO recommends that babies be breastfed for at least the first 6 months of their life as this does lower the risk of some infectious diseases. While eczema can't always be prevented, regular care can successfully help manage the condition and keep rashes and itching away. The main treatment options include: Using emollient moisturisers that fill in the gaps between skin cells. They form a protective barrier that keeps skin from getting dehydrated, keeps germs and irritants out, and relieves itching. Using special cleansers that are gentler than soaps and don’t dry skin out or upset its pH. Steroid creams. These are typically only used for acute symptoms and should be treated as a last resort as they can create dependency and have long-term side effects like skin atrophy. When used, they should only be used for a short period of time. Pimecrolimus and tacrolimus. These are two other medications approved for the treatment of eczema over the age of two. They can also be topically applied and are typically used if steroids are not tolerated, or have proven ineffective. Other eczema treatment options include immunosuppressant medication, UV radiation, and wet wraps, which detailed in the image below. Our Concentrated Skin Repair Balm is a highly effective option for wet wrap therapy. Oral medications are typically only used if the eczema is severe and affects large areas of the body as they have more extensive side effects than topical treatments. People often also turn to herbal products or dietary supplements such as evening primrose oil, vitamin E and zinc, in search of a cure. Research however, hasn’t shown that these are effective. Other therapies exist but have yet been studied so are not currently recommended by doctors. Recommended Products Ccentrated Skin Repair Balm Soothes and moisturise dry, eczema-prone skin, helps relieve skin allergies and irritation from environmental stressors. Formulated with cocoa butter, almond oil and coconut oil that form a protective lipid layer over the skin and help skin rebuild its defences.                               100% Pure, Organic Wild Sea Buckthorn Oil Sea buckthorn oil has recently begun to be studied as a treatment for eczema and dermatitis. Mouse models have demonstrated that it is successfully able to alleviate dermatitis sores. It contains the highest found in nature of palmitoleic (omega-7) acid. Palmitoleic acid is anti-inflammatory and protects cells against oxidative stress. It is also highly beneficial for skin dryness, and atopic dermatitis, or eczema, among other things. You can learn more about sea buckthorn oil and its benefits here. Hydrating Daily Gentle Shop Now Salicylic Acid Cleanser Shop Now Moisturiser Cleanser Shop Now

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  • Dehydrated Skin And The Role Of NMF In Skin Hydration And Health

    Dehydrated Skin And The Role Of NMF In Skin Hydration And Health

    By Yasmeen Naseer

    Contents Introduction Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF) And The Importance of Skin Hydration Pathologies Associated With Filaggrin Gene Mutations, NMF Reduction And Absence Basic Skin Care Routine Recommendation For Dehydrated Skin Introduction Water is essential for the normal functioning of skin, in particular, for the normal functioning of the skin’s outer layer, i.e., the stratum corneum. Stratum corneum hydration is necessary for the proper maturation and desquamation of skin cells and a lack of water in the skin impairs the enzymatic activity necessary for the normal functioning of these processes. As a result skin appears dull, dry and flaky. Given the importance of hydration for the normal functioning of the skin, water loss from the skin must be carefully regulated. This regulation is dependent on the complex nature of the stratum corneum, specifically on two major components:  The presence of humectants, or naturally hygroscopic ingredients within corneocytes. This is known as the Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF) and is discussed in greater detail in subsequent sections. The lipid matrix, i.e., intercellular lipid arrangement in the stratum corneum that forms a barrier to trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). Dehydration often tends to go hand in hand with dry skin as dry skin lacks sufficient skin lipids which are essential for forming a barrier against excess water loss. However, that said, people with oily skin can also experience skin dehydration. Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF) And The Importance of Skin Hydration The NMF consists of the natural humectant substances in your skin that help it attract and hold onto water. As is evident from the preceding statement, NMF is essential for helping skin maintain adequate hydration, which is essential for its normal functioning and for its optimal functioning as a barrier. The NMF is composed principally of filaggrin proteolysis (degradation) products including free amino acids, and amino acid derivatives like PCA, urocanic acid, inorganic salts (chlorides, phosphates, and citrates of sodium, potassium, calcium, and magnesium), sugars, lactic acid and urea. It is found within corneocytes (terminally differentiated keratinocytes that compose most of the stratum corneum, the topmost layer of the skin) and makes up approximately 10% of the mass of a corneocyte and 20-30% of the dry weight of the stratum corneum. The ingredients that make up the NMF serve as highly efficient humectants. When hydrated, they form ionic interactions with keratin fibres. This results in reduced intermolecular forces between the fibers and increased elasticity of the stratum corneum. As a result, skin appears supple and healthy and the probability of skin damage due to mechanical stress, reduces. NMF also keeps epidermal solute concentrations balanced to prevent both over, and under-hydration of the skin, where the former causes corneocytes to shrink. While the stratum corneum is biologically dead, it is biochemically highly active. Water in the stratum corneum is also integral for this biochemical activity, which includes the activity of enzymes. A lot of these enzymes are involved in the desquamation process, and their normal functioning is essential for several reasons, only one of which is the prevention of acne and clogged pores. Research shows a dependency of desquamatory enzyme activity on water levels within the skin. Pathologies Associated With Filaggrin Gene Mutations, NMF Reduction And Absence Reduction in, or depletion of, NMF in the skin is associated with dry skin, and also with several more serious skin pathologies that manifest clinically as areas of dry skin with abnormal desquamation resulting in scaling and flaking, and in extreme cases, the skin can even crack. These pathologies include ichthyosis vulgaris, psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis, where in the former two, the NMF is essentially absent. Reduction or depletions may be the result of mutations in the filaggrin gene, or even the result of environmental factors. Low humidity for example, impairs the ability of hydrolytic enzymes to break filaggrin down into NMF, resulting in dry skin. UV radiation has also been shown to impair the breakdown of filaggrin and routine soap washing has been shown to deplete it from the superficial layers of the stratum corneum. NMF levels in the skin also fall with age as the production of filaggrin precursors decline. Research, for example, has shown diminished levels of urea in the skin of the elderly, and also in the skin of patients with atopic dermatitis. The level of PCA, another component of NMF, has also been shown to fall in the top layers of the skin as a consequence of soap-washing, and of age. The good news amidst all of this however, is that topical application of moisturisers containing NMF appears to be beneficial in the treatment of dry skin conditions. The topical application of urea for instance, corrects urea deficits; PCA, when topically applied, has been shown to alleviate symptoms of dry skin, while lactic acid appears to work by stimulating the synthesis of ceramides in the stratum corneum. Hydrating Daily Gentle Shop Now Salicylic Acid Cleanser Shop Now Moisturiser Cleanser Shop Now

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  • How Does Moisturiser Help Dry Skin?

    How Does Moisturiser Help Dry Skin?

    By Yasmeen Naseer

    Contents Introduction Key Components of Moisturizers Moisturizer Recommendations For Dry Skin Introduction Dry skin, also called xerosis, is a common condition experienced by most people at some point in their lives. It tends to be quotidian during cold, dry weather, and also tends to become more common with age as NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor) levels, and sebaceous gland activity, decline. People with inflammatory skin conditions like dermatitis and psoriasis, and those with hereditary disorders such as ichthyosis, are also predisposed to the development of dry skin. Key Components of Moisturizers Moisturizers are the main player in the fight against dry skin. The ingredients that make them effective against dry skin conditions can be classified into three main categories, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. The best moisturizers tend to effectively combine all three in a single formula. The categories are: Emollients. These are oily substances that fill in the gaps between dead skin cells, smoothing out the skin’s surface and aiding and abetting its barrier function. While emollients do have some occlusive effects, their primary function is to soften the skin. Examples include butters and oils, esters, fatty acids, and ceramides. Emollient moisturizers are beneficial for everyone. Not all emollient ingredients are suitable for everyone however, and which emollients you should look for, or avoid, in moisturizers depends largely on your skin. Individuals with acne-prone skin, for example, should avoid emollients like coconut oil and cocoa butter as these tend to clog pores and cause breakouts. Occlusives. Occlusives can be thought of as a second skin. They create a physical barrier atop the skin’s surface to help reduce the rate of trans-epidermal water loss and prevent the skin from getting dehydrated. Examples include petrolatum, lanolin, certain silicones and waxes. Occlusives tend to be best for individuals with drier skin types and those prone to dry skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis. Humectants. These are hygroscopic substances, i.e., substances that tend to absorb moisture from the air to hydrate the skin. For the chemistry nerds out there, at a molecular level humectants are able to absorb and hold onto water due to the presence of hydrophilic hydroxyl and amine groups that make the molecule polar, thus allowing it to create hydrogen bonds with water molecules. Humectants are able to draw water vapour from the air to help hydrate the skin if the humidity level is above 50%. At lower levels of humidity, they can sometimes pull up too much water from deeper layers of the skin from where, due to a lack of atmospheric humidity, it subsequently evaporates at an accelerated rate, ultimately leading to skin dehydration. Examples of humectants include the very hyped hyaluronic acid, urea (my personal favourite, followed by glycerin), amino acids, sugars, honey, and even alpha-hydroxy acids, among several others. Hydration is essential for the normal functioning of skin, including the process of desquamation, i.e. the natural shedding of dead cells from the skin’s surface. This makes humectants beneficial for all skin types. They are however, especially beneficial for individuals with drier, more dehydrated skin. Lastly, humectants also provide temporary anti-ageing effects as extra hydration plumps the skin up, making fine lines and wrinkles less noticeable. It is important to note however, that this impact is transient and humectants are not a substitute for anti-ageing ingredients like retinol. Hydrating Daily Gentle Shop Now Salicylic Acid Cleanser Shop Now Moisturiser Cleanser Shop Now

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  • What's So Special About Sea Buckthorn Oil?

    What's So Special About Sea Buckthorn Oil?

    By Yasmeen Naseer

    Contents Introduction: The Benefits of Using Oils In Your Skin Care Routine What Is Sea Buckthorn Oil and How Does It Benefit the Skin Summarising the Benefits of Sea Buckthorn Oil Extracting Sea Buckthorn Oil Incorporating Sea Buckthorn Oil Into Your Skin Care Routine Introduction: The Benefits of Using Oils In Your Skin Care Routine Plant oils are commonly used for multiple purposes all around the world. They possess compounds that can give them antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, among several others. These properties make them attractive alternative treatments for dry skin conditions, i.e. conditions associated with a disruption of the skin’s barrier. Oils can be a fantastic addition to any skin care routine - provided you know which ones to use for your skin type, as not all are created equal. The impact of different oils on human skin varies, depending upon the unique mix of fatty acids and other compounds present in the oil. The ratio of fatty acids in an oil tends to be a major determinant of the oil’s capacity to repair the skin barrier. Generally, oils with a higher ratio of linoleic acid to oleic acid tend to benefit the skin barrier, while oils with a higher ratio of oleic acid might be detrimental to it. Oils are able to create an occlusive film on the skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), so skin remains hydrated - a characteristic that is essential for the maintenance of skin health. Oils are also able to help protect, regenerate and soften the skin, relieve inflammation and maintain proper structure of the skin’s intracellular matrix. They are important in the formation of the permeability barrier, which contributes to the acidification of the stratum corneum, promoting its structural integrity and barrier function. Fatty acids in oils serve as building blocks for complex lipids in sebum that impart a self-disinfecting activity to the skin surface. Skin that is deficient in fatty acids is said to have a compromised barrier and is more susceptible to dryness and flaking, irritation, and even infection. Fatty acids also play an important role in the biological synthesis of cell membrane components, or inflammatory mediators, called eicosanoids including prostaglandins, prostacyclins, thromboxanes, and leukotrienes. When it comes to the outward appearance of the skin, the health of its internal structure is important to consider as skin with a healthy internal structure also has a better outward appearance. Before we move on to the next segment, it is important to mention that the oils being referred to over here are not the same as the fragrant plant extracts commonly known as “essential oils”. Essential oils are concentrated, hydrophobic liquids that contain volatile compounds. They are called “essential” oils because they contain the compounds that give a plant its characteristic “essence” or fragrance. We actively don’t recommend using these on your skin because of their potential to sensitise or irritate the skin. What Is Sea Buckthorn Oil and How Does It Benefit the Skil The name hippophae rhamnoides, the scientific name for sea buckthorn, comes from an amalgamation of two Greek words, “hippo”, which means horse, and “phaos”, which means to shine. The plant got this name because in ancient times its leaves were used as horse fodder and gave the horses that ate them a shiny coat. Sea buckthorn has a long history of application as food and medicine. Sea buckthorn oil is obtained via mechanical cold pressing or solvent extraction from the fruit and/or seeds of the sea buckthorn plant. Cold pressed sea buckthorn oil is a rich source of antioxidants, vitamin C, flavonoids, also known as vitamin P, polyphenols and polysaccharides. Sea buckthorn seed oil and sea buckthorn fruit oil both have different compositions, appearances and benefits. The oil from the berries is a thick, deep red-orange liquid with a tart taste and a characteristic scent. It has the highest concentration, at 30-35% by weight, of palmitoleic (omega-7) acid, of all vegetable oils. While both oils contain a wide range of essential unsaturated fatty acids (UFAs), the concentration of this fatty acid is much lower in the seed oil. Palmitoleic acid is highly valued in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory properties and its ability to protect cells against oxidative stress. It also helps with skin dryness, atopic dermatitis, also known as eczema, the maintenance of skin elasticity, and in the improvement of skin wrinkles. As mentioned previously, both sea buckthorn fruit and seed oils are rich in unsaturated fatty acids. However, the seed oil is richer in polyunsaturated fatty acids, while the oil of the fruit is richer in monounsaturated fatty acids. Unsaturated fatty acids work synergistically to improve blood circulation in the skin, thereby resulting in the more efficient removal of excess toxins and an increased availability of nutrients and oxygen for the skin. In the deeper layers of the skin, unsaturated fatty acids are converted to prostaglandins, a group of lipids that, among other things, are involved in dealing with the body’s physiological response to injury. Fatty acids are also constituents of the skin barrier where they help the skin retain water so it stays supple and also help prevent dryness and attenuate the skin’s ageing process. They also play a role in the regulation of sebaceous gland function and can result in the improvement of conditions like acne. Sea buckthorn oil also contains saturated fatty acids that form a protective barrier/occlusive film on the skin thereby reducing transepidermal water loss and keeping the skin from becoming dehydrated. They also help stabilise the oil and increase its resistance to rancidity and oxidation. Sea buckthorn berries, and by extension the oil obtained from them, are also an exceptionally rich source of vitamins, and around 14 have been identified in the berries including vitamins A, C, D, E, F, K, P, and B complex. Sea buckthorn berries have about 14 times more vitamin C than oranges. They also contain several other beneficial compounds such as amino acids, minerals, and phenolic acids, that help limit the formation of free radicals, protect cells against their harmful effects and also help counteract the effects of UV damage on the skin. Both sea buckthorn seed oil, and sea buckthorn berry oil, are rich sources of vitamin E and phytosterols. Phytosterols are cholesterol-like molecules that help protect against the reduction in collagen synthesis that results after UV exposure and may even stimulate the synthesis of collagen. Unlike sea buckthorn seed oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil is also rich in carotenoids. Carotenoids are red, orange and yellow organic pigments produced by several plants and other living species and are responsible for giving sea buckthorn its characteristic orange colour. Carotenoids benefit the skin by acting as antioxidants and some also have the ability to be converted into retinol on the skin, which belongs to a vitamin A-based class of drugs called retinoids. Retinoids are by far the most used and most studied anti-ageing compounds and have a solid track record to back up their effectiveness. Components in sea buckthorn oil are able to reach varying levels of the epidermis due to the presence of fatty acids with properties that are able to enhance transdermal delivery. Sea buckthorn oil contains several, powerful antioxidant compounds that are able to fight off free radicals. It is also able to regulate the activity of enzymes within the skin that fight off free radicals and help the skin hold on to moisture. In addition, it is also able to relieve skin dryness and even potentially reverse skin damage caused by an exposure to UV radiation due to its high concentration of carotenoids and tocopherols. These properties make sea buckthorn oil exceptionally beneficial as an ingredient for the prevention of skin ageing and in the treatment of dry skin conditions such as psoriasis and eczema, or dermatitis. Our sea buckthorn oil is a blend of both the fruit and the seed oil that work synergistically to amplify benefits to the skin. The berries are a rich source of vitamins C, A, in the form of alpha- and beta-carotene and a mixture of other carotenoids, E and P, alongside the AHAs: malic acid and citric acid. Summarising the Benefits of Sea Buckthorn Oil In comparison to other plant oils, sea buckthorn oil has a unique makeup of carotenoids, fatty acids, and complex lipids. It contains omega-7, or palmitoleic acid, which is a rare find in plant oils but is a component of skin lipids that stimulates the production of collagen, wound healing and skin regeneration, properties that make the oil especially beneficial for the treatment of scars. These benefits of sea buckthorn oil have also been connected to its omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acid content, alongside its content of other nutrients, the likes of carotenoids and tocopherols, that stimulate the production of dermal fibroblasts and collagen, along with the expression of enzymes, known as metalloproteinases, that induce the repair of tissue, and angiogenesis, i.e., the production of new blood vessels. The fatty acids in sea buckthorn oil also help improve the skin’s hydration levels by helping reduce transepidermal water loss through the skin. They are able to do this in two ways: first, by forming an occlusive layer on top of the skin and second, by helping to stimulate the production of skin barrier lipids and proteins. A good addition to any skin care routine, the antioxidant and nutritional profile of sea buckthorn oil make it particularly beneficial for ageing skin, acne, acne scars and dry skin conditions such as eczema, or dermatitis. Extracting Sea Buckthorn Oil Sea buckthorn has been used historically in traditional medicine for centuries. However, harvesting it is not easy. The berries tend to be found in mountainous areas and are densely surrounded with thorns. To pick the berries off the shrub therefore, it is necessary to remove the entire branch. This means that sea buckthorn berries can only be harvested once every two years, and on top of it, don’t yield a lot of oil either, which makes the oil an expensive one to extract. Several different oil extraction methods exist. The methods used to extract and process the oil are important determinants of the quality of an oil. Cold-pressing is the preferred method of extraction as it doesn’t use heat or toxic chemicals and is as a result, best able to preserve the beneficial compounds in an oil while at the same time limiting irritating by-products. Our sea buckthorn oil is a blend of both the fruit and the seed oil. It is cold pressed from hand picked, high quality berries and is stored in inert, UV-protective packaging from the time that it is extracted, to the time that it reaches the end customer. This is essential as UV radiation in sunlight is known to induce oxidation and rancidity in oils. Our sea buckthorn oil is also completely unrefined. This means that it is not mixed with other oils of chemicals that result in a deterioration in the quality and purity of the end product so you receive oil of the highest purity and potency to incorporate into your skin care regimen. Incorporating Sea Buckthorn Oil Into Your Skin Care Routine Incorporating our sea buckthorn oil into your skin care routine is not complicated. It’s one of my favourite oils to use on all skin types just because of the sheer strength of the nutritional punch that it packs. Sea buckthorn oil has something to offer for everyone but, as previously mentioned, is particularly beneficial for ageing skin, and skin prone to acne and acne scars, dryness and eczema, or dermatitis. However, if you’re prone to fungal acne, it’s not the best option for you, and you’d be better off using our fungal acne-safe MCT Oil instead. Sea buckthorn oil can be used alone, or mixed into another moisturiser or oil. It is best used at night because of the strong yellow colour that it has because of its high carotenoid content.

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  • Salicylic Acid a.k.a. BHA: The Complete Guide

    Salicylic Acid a.k.a. BHA: The Complete Guide

    By Yasmeen Naseer

    Salicylic acid isn't the gold standard in acne treatments without reason. In the images below you can see the results some of our clients experienced using salicylic acid for their acne. However, salicylic acid does more than just treat pimples. In this post I'm going to tell you all you need to know about what salicylic acid is, how to use it and what to expect when you start using it. I'll cover the following topics: What is salicylic acid and how does it work? How is salicylic acid different from AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid? Salicylic acid, acne and fungal acne What else is salicylic acid good for? How to use salicylic acid Salicylic acid and purging Our salicylic acid product range What is salicylic acid and how does it work? Salicylic acid, also called beta hydroxy acid or BHA, is a chemical exfoliant. Chemical exfoliants dissolve the "glue" that holds dull, dead skin cells to the surface of the skin, allowing them to shed off more easily. This results in smoother, healthier looking skin. Salicylic acid also has anti-inflammatory properties. and some studies suggest that it helps protect the skin from sun damage as well. How is salicylic acid different from AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid? AHAs are also chemical exfoliants. While salicylic acid is oil soluble however, AHAs are not. Salicylic acid's oil solubility allows it to penetrate your pores where it dissolves clogs and exfoliate the pore lining. This makes it especially beneficial for acne, which includes blackheads, whiteheads and pimples, and for helping minimise the appearance of enlarged pores. Salicylic acid, acne and fungal acne Acne occurs when your pores get clogged with oil and dead skin cells. Acne that is not inflamed takes the form of blackheads and whiteheads, while inflamed acne, take the form of pimples and cysts. Salicylic acid attacks acne on multiple fronts. It has antibacterial properties and helps kill off the C. acne bacteria implicated in inflamed acne; helps reduce inflammation; and it also helps break up clogs in your pores and keeps new clogs from forming. For those who prefer illustration to text, here's a nice one that shows how a pimple forms and gets infected and how salicylic acid - the blue spheres in the video - then saves the day. Fungal acne, on the other hand, is caused by the malassezia fungus that lives on your skin. This fungus is an opportunistic pathogen. This means that it only tends to cause disease when our immunity is in some way compromised. Among other things, fungal acne can also be triggered by prolonged antibiotic use and tends to get worse in hot and humid climates. Salicylic acid also has potent anti-fungal properties that make it an exceptional choice for individuals with fungal acne as well, but only when used in a fungal acne safe formula. While salicylic acid is an exceptional treatment for both acne and fungal acne, bear in mind that it's not enough to just use the ingredient though. The formulation and ingredient concentration matter and could mean the difference between exceptional results and skin that's irritated and visibly worse than it was before. Proper use matters too - overuse can irritate the skin while using too little might not give you the results you're looking for. Lastly, make sure that your skincare routine is built on a solid foundation. You can learn more about how to build a skincare routine from scratch here. What else is salicylic acid good for? In addition to the treatment of acne and fungal acne, salicylic acid is also used to treat dandruff, psoriasis, calluses, corns, keratosis pilaris and warts. Salicylic acid, and other chemical exfoliants such as lactic acid and glycolic acid, also help pigmentation, and other signs of skin ageing. How to use salicylic acid If you want complete sample routines based on the type and intensity of acne you have, you can find them here for acne vulgaris, i.e. bacterial acne, and here for fungal acne. If you're only looking for general guidelines on how to use salicylic acid, I'm going to cover those now. Over-the-counter salicylic acid products tend to contain the ingredient at a concentration of between 0.5% and 2% and come in a variety of formats from cleansers to serums. When starting out with any chemical exfoliant, including salicylic acid, start slowly and see how your skin responds - this entails starting by using a low to moderate strength product 2 to 3 times per week and slowly building up to as much as your skin is able to tolerate. Everyone is able to tolerate different levels of exfoliation and its important to ensure that you don't overdo it so you don't end up irritating your skin and compromising your skin barrier. Refrain from using multiple exfoliating products in your routine, especially if they contain high concentrations of exfoliants. If at any point your skin feels dry, tight or irritated, take that as a sign of over-exfoliation and cut back. Also avoid combining too many actives together to avoid irritation and always introduce them into your routine one at a time, with the space of a few weeks in between. If you have very little to no acne, salicylic acid in a wash-off format, such as a cleanser, might be all you need to gently exfoliate and prevent acne. If your skin is sensitive, build up your skin barrier before you start using actives by using a gentle cleanser, loading up on moisturiser, and using ingredients like niacinamide, that help support and rebuild a compromised skin barrier. Avoid exfoliants if your skin is prone to eczema and be diligent with sunscreen, since exfoliation can often make your skin more sensitive to the sun, to ensure that you get the most out of the time, money and effort you put into your skin care routine. Salicylic acid is pregnancy safe in concentrations of up to 2% and is safe for daily use on the face if your skin is able to tolerate it. However, it is not the best ingredient to use if you’re looking to exfoliate or treat large areas of your body over a prolonged time period. Bear in mind that persistent use of a good salicylic acid product is necessary to maintain results even if after your skin has cleared. Skincare is like a diet - you only stay thin as long as you stay on the diet. Acne doesn’t have a universal cure and returns if you stop taking care of your skin. In my experience this holds true even for individuals who've been through courses of aggressive medications like isotretinoin. If they don't maintain a good skincare routine, they often see their acne return around a year down the road. Salicylic acid and purging Ingredients like salicylic acid, retinol, and AHAs, that increase skin cell turnover, can sometimes lead to a purge when you first incorporate them into your routine. Purging is normal and subsides on its own, typically within 4 to 6 weeks. It tends to happen in areas where you usually get breakouts. While it can look unpleasant initially, the clear skin that follows after a purge makes it well worth tolerating it. However, a purge can sometimes be avoided, or its intensity reduced, by introducing actives into your routine slowly. Our salicylic acid product range Scroll to the end for a table that summarises the key characteristic of each product.  Product Description/Format Salicylic Acid Concentration Other Beneficial Ingredients Best For Resurfacing Face Wash A non-foaming wash that deep cleans your skin without drying it 0.5% 3.5 to 4% AHAs (glycolic and lactic acids), turmeric and honey Normal to dry skin Salicylic Acid Cleanser A non-foaming wash that deep cleans your skin without drying it 1.0% 2.5% glycolic acid, honey and grapeseed oil Normal to oily skin Salicylic Acid Emulsion A lightweight leave-on treatment 1.5% 2.0% glycolic acid, panthenol, oats and urea Normal to oily skin . Fungal acne safe Salicylic Acid Moisturiser A creamy leave-on formula 2.0% 1.5% glycolic acid, grapeseed oil, sunflower seed oil, panthenol Normal to dry skin If you still have questions or need assistance building your skin care routine, reach out and we’ll give you a complete consultation around what’s best for you - free of charge.

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  • To Acne Sufferers: You Are More Than Your Imperfections

    To Acne Sufferers: You Are More Than Your Imperfections

    By Yasmeen Naseer

    Sometime around April 2020, we ran a mini-campaign on Instagram. We reached out to our followers and asked them some of the worst comments that had been made about their acne. The list was long. The list was heartless. And worst of all, the list left those suffering from the condition with lasting pain. It affected their self confidence and their mental health and so we decided that the time was right to create a short film to create more awareness about the condition. As it is, acne sufferers commonly experience depression and anxiety, and given the intimate link between the skin and mental health, this can actually aggravate the condition, leading to further deterioration of mental health and so on in a never-ending downward spiral. It’s important to remember that anyone can experience acne at any point in their life, and in fact, a vast majority of people actually do. And while diet, lifestyle, inappropriate skin care, and several other factors can play a role in bringing the condition on or in aggravating it, no one makes their skin break out willingly. Those suffering from the condition are already conscious enough of it as it is, without needing constant reminders of it from those around them. Words can hurt, choose them carefully. And you never know when and if you might be the one waking up with a pimple. To acne sufferers: You are more than your imperfections. Don’t let your imperfections define you. If you’re suffering from acne and need help, you can always reach out to us for support and we promise to help you to the best of our abilities. <3 Join our Facebook support group for acne sufferers.

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  • How To Build A Skin Care Routine From Scratch

    How To Build A Skin Care Routine From Scratch

    By Yasmeen Naseer

    Video at the end! With complicated sounding things such as the 10-step Korean skincare routine and the 7 skins method floating around, it has now become more important than ever to understand what the basics of a skin care routine really are: which products are essential and which ones are optional and how can you make sure that you're choosing the best options for your skin type? As you read this post, you'll realise that skin care doesn't need to be complicated, time consuming or excessively pricey to deliver results. I suffered from acne for seven years. Over the years I tried multiple skin care products and medications without really understanding what they were doing in my skincare routine, Seven years of hit and trial later I began to take skincare seriously and built my routine from scratch keeping the knowledge I'm about to share with you in mind. Over the next few months my acne gradually cleared up and I've been acne-free - with the exception of an occasional pimple - since 2019. Given this, I cannot stress enough the importance of having a solid skin care routine in place and the difference that it can make in your skin, from getting rid of acne, to reversing the signs of ageing. A skin care routine can be broken down into two main parts: the foundation and the add-ons. While the exact number of skin care products that you need vary by age and skin concern, only three products form the foundation of any skincare routine - 23 or 203. These are a gentle cleanser, a suitable moisturiser and sun protection. If you're young and have clear skin, these three products are all you need. Add-ons, on the other hand, are products that you can include in your routine to target specific concerns. While they are often fantastic additions, it’s a good idea to limit the number of add-ons you have to the minimum necessary. As a rule of thumb, try not to have more than 3 add-ons in your routine. Getting overzealous can often be counterproductive. Let’s now dive a little deeper into foundational and add on products. The Foundation As previously mentioned, this includes your cleanser, moisturiser and SPF (30 or above). Expend effort into selecting these three products since they have a much larger impact on your skin than most people assume. If your foundation isn't solid, it doesn't matter how many toners, serums, and other "miracle" products you use over and above them, you most likely won't see results. A cleanser is simply what you wash your face with. It helps get rid of the dirt, grime, sweat, excess sebum, and dead cells, that build up on your skin’s surface and is necessary to protect your skin from the damage that these pollutants spawn. It also gives any products that follow, a clean canvas to do their job. Aim for something gentle, and keep in mind that suds, i.e. excessive lather, are not an indication that you’ve washed your face well. Soaps and foaming cleansers can in fact, be overly drying, and upset the pH of your skin resulting in long-term damage. Look instead for something gentle that doesn't leave your skin feeling dry, stripped, tight or "squeaky clean" after you’ve used it. You can learn more about the importance of cleansers and how the wrong cleanser can damage your skin here. Moisturising after you’ve cleansed is necessary to lock in hydration and replenish your skin with essential lipids and humectants that your skin has lost during cleansing. Hydrated skin is healthy skin, and yes, a suitable moisturiser is necessary even if your skin is oily and acne prone. Keeping your skin moisturised and hydrated actually helps keep excessive oil production in check. Last but not least: sunscreen. The sun is the single biggest cause of skin ageing and can cause pigmentation and loose-saggy skin. It can also aggravate acne, and the marks that are left behind after it - which, as it is, are a huge problem for Asian skin types even without it. Luckily, skin cancer is not much of a concern in this part of the world, but if you're white, sunscreen will help protect you from malignant skin lesions too. The Add-Ons Once you have your foundations in place, you’re ready to start building on top of them - if you need to. Add-ons include everything from toners, essences and serums to mists and masks. When choosing your add-ons, don’t start piling things up randomly and as I said before, try to limit the number you use and refrain from mixing multiple actives together. Pick and choose products keeping your skin goals in mind to avoid wasting your money. The first add-on I recommend adding to any skincare routine is a chemical exfoliant. Exfoliation offers several skin benefits and I've done a whole series on it where I discuss it in detail, here. Often just adding an exfoliant will help you reach your skin goals. Salicylic acid, a chemical exfoliant, for instance, is also the gold standard in treatments for acne. However, if you're still looking to take your routine one step further, see which actives work for which concerns and add them in one at a time, a few weeks apart - without going overboard. Niacinamide, for example, is an excellent choice for those looking to strengthen their skin barrier, minimise the appearance of pores, and even out their skin tone, while retinol is the gold standard in anti-ageing treatments. Several actives exist and there is no one size fits all routine. What works magic for your best friend might not work as well for you. Even if you start with good formulations and only choose products after carefully scrutinising their ingredients lists, it still often requires some hit and trial before you find the perfect routine for you. Lastly, keep in mind that it doesn’t matter what the product label says about a product - ingredients matter more than anything else, even if the product in question is a wash-off product. We've organised our shop page by the steps that are required in a skincare routine to make the shopping experience easier for you. You can visit our shop by clicking here. If you’re still unsure of where to start however, get in touch, and we’ll be more than happy to help! :)    

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  • Dark Circles And Eye Cream: The Complete Guide

    Dark Circles And Eye Cream: The Complete Guide

    By Yasmeen Naseer

    "How can I get rid of dark circles?" is one of the questions I get asked most frequently, so I figured that it deserves a post of its own. If a quick summary of the information is what you're looking for, scroll to the end for an infographic. Otherwise, keep reading. In order to understand what does, and does not work for dark circles, you need to first understand what causes them. The causes can be several and varied, and any attempt at correction will necessarily need to take into account the possible underlying cause. So without further ado, the key reasons follow: Even as tanning is a popular activity in large parts of the Western world, we're well aware that the sun is no friend to our skin. UV radiation results in an increase in the production of melanin and the deposition of this excessive pigment around the eye area can lead to dark circles. UV rays also cause the degradation of collagen fibres found in the skin. This causes skin to lose its elasticity and consequently sag, creating dark shadows around the eye area. While the latter also tends to be a somewhat natural part of the ageing process, along with other processes the likes of tear trough depression and the loss of fat beneath the skin, which are more pronounced in some individuals than in others, UV rays can expedite the process of skin ageing and exacerbate the damage the results. One way your skin responds to trauma or stress, is by darkening - think about the dark mark left behind after a pimple or a cut. Dark circles then, can also be the result of post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIHP) that might result from allergic contact dermatitis. I'm one of the lucky few not prone to dark circles, but have personally experienced allergic contact dermatitis around the eyes on more occasions than one and the result has always been a temporary darkening of the area. While its perfectly normal to try and get rid of PIHP on your skin with the use of actives, I personally would not recommend using anything strong around the eye area. The skin around your eyes is much more sensitive and delicate than the skin on the rest of your face, and strong actives can lead to irritation that exacerbates the problem instead of improving it - I speak from accidental experience. Another factor that can play on the sensitivity of the delicate eye region is the use of cosmetic products that contain irritants. I've already cautioned against the use of strong actives around the eye area, so this point revolves around avoiding the use of products containing excessive alcohol, fragrance, and other irritating skincare ingredients that include, but are not limited to, formaldehyde releasing preservatives such as DMDM hydantoin and diazolidinyl urea, certain sunscreen actives, physical scrubs, soap, and several others, that also have the potential to irritate the skin. In some individuals, veins and capillaries tend to lie close to the surface of the skin under the eyes, resulting in dark circles with a slightly violet appearance that tends to become exaggerated during menstruation. Dry, dehydrated skin can also build-up around the eyes and causes light to scatter instead of reflecting it, resulting in dull skin around the eyes. You can also be one of the unfortunate few with a family tendency towards dark circles or allergies, as the latter can also be a cause. You could also have been born with deep-set eyes that create dark shadows. Lastly, while this is not clinically substantiated, some lifestyle factors, the likes of a lack of sleep, which lets face it, aspects every aspect of your health negatively, stress, alcohol overuse and smoking, may also contribute to the development of dark circles. Now that we have a solid understanding of what causes dark circles, here are some steps that you can take to try and fix them: Use a mineral sunscreen around the eye area and use sunglasses when you go outdoors to try and prevent sun-induced pigmentation and collagen degradation. If allergies are causing your dark circles, look into using an anti-histamine. Moisturise. The AccuFix Carbamide Intensive Hydration Cream is an excellent choice that prevents dryness and also gently causes dead skin to slough off. Is eye cream necessary? No. Is it going to cause a miracle? No. However, if pigmentation is causing your dark circles, looking into an eye cream containing brightening actives such as vitamin C or niacinamide might help. Caffeine. This however, can be irritating for the delicate skin under the eye area and should be used sparingly. Sleep, sleep, sleep. This cannot be emphasised enough. There are also medical options, such as intense pulse light, radiofrequency and certain lasers, that you can discuss with a licensed professional. Lastly, concealer. I hate to break it to you but there’s no miracle fix for dark circles and none of the above might work, so you might find it useful to have a good concealer handy.

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  • Mental Health And Acne During The Covid-19 Lockdown

    Mental Health And Acne During The Covid-19 Lockdown

    By Yasmeen Naseer

    While society is increasingly starting to acknowledge the impact the visible skin disorders, such as acne, can have on our mental health, the connection actually goes both ways, as anyone who has experienced acne during exam season, can attest. Poor mental health can also lead to a deterioration in skin health. And no topic could be more pertinent to discuss in the social isolation that has ensued as a result of the coronavirus lockdown. According to The Guardian, the term "social recession" has been coined to describe this social isolation, because of the profound physical, psychological and economic effects it is having. These include, most importantly, an increase in chronic inflammation, a factor that has been implicated in sundry chronic diseases, and even in cellular ageing. Great strides have been made over the last few decades in understanding the relationship between mental health and skin health and scientists have found that the brain and nervous systems influence immune cells in the skin and that certain types of stress can interfere with immune activity, affecting the skin's ability to heal. Keeping these facts in mind, we engaged psychologist, Dr. Imrana Shah, to give you some tips on how to maintain a positive attitude, and keep your mental health in top shape, during the lockdown. Watch the video below to learn how you can come out of this lockdown in top shape.  

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