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Melasma is a common pigmentation disorder. Learn the science behind what causes it and what the research says about how you can best manage it.

Seborrheic dermatitis is a chronic, inflammatory skin condition that primarily affects oily areas of the body. This guide contains everything that you need to know about its causes and treatments.

In this guide, we explore what dandruff is, what causes dandruff, and the various dandruff treatment options available to help you get relief and maintain a healthy scalp.

Today we’re going to jump right into some of the most frequently asked questions about this fantastic ingredient including what niacinamide does, what are the benefits of topical niacinamide and much more!

What is pigmentation (also called hyperpigmentation)? Pigmentation, also known as hyperpigmentation, is a common skin condition where some areas of skin are darker than others and typically happens on areas of the body that are frequently exposed to the sun. It happens due to the uneven production of melanin by melanocytes in the skin. ​Melanin is the pigment that gives skin (and also our hair and eyes) its colour and melanocytes are the cells in your skin that produce it. Excessive melanin in some areas and less in others results in patches that look brown, black, grey or pink, depending on your race and ethnicity and people with darker skin tend to be more prone to pigmentation than those with lighter skin. Pigmentation is also at the heart of skin conditions like melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Pigmentation isn’t painful or physically uncomfortable, but tends to make people conscious of their appearance, so in this series of blog posts, I’m going to cover everything that you need to know about pigmentation and what you can do to fix it. Let’s dive right in. What are the different types of hyperpigmentation? When it comes to pigmentation, it’s important to differentiate between diffuse hyperpigmentation and localised hyperpigmentation. ​Diffuse hyperpigmentation is pigmentation that tends to be widespread on different areas of the body, and localised hyperpigmentation is pigmentation that’s limited to one area of the body, as in the case of acne marks and melasma. This is because diffuse hyperpigmentation tends to be associated with an underlying cause and only improves when the underlying cause is addressed. Its underlying causes include malignancy (i.e. cancer), autoimmune conditions, and the side effects of certain medications. Given the seriousness of these causes, I think it goes without saying that if you have diffuse hyperpigmentation you need to visit your doctor and look into what could be causing it. In this blog, I’m going to focus on localised hyperpigmentation, its causes, and what you can do to address it. Here are the major causes of localised hyperpigmentation: Age spots (also known as sun spots) Age spots are small, darkened patches of skin that are caused by accumulated skin damage from sun exposure. Like all pigmentation, they also have to do with an uneven increase in the production of melanin and are most common in people over 40. They appear mainly on body parts that are frequently sun exposed such as the face, neck, décolletage, hands and arms. While usually harmless, age spots can sometimes become malignant (i.e. cancerous). If an age spot seems to change in shape, size or colour, becomes itchy, or starts to bleed, don’t wait, consult a dermatologist ASAP. ​The prevalence of skin cancer in Pakistan According to the Journal of the Pakistan Medical Association, over 800,000 new cases of skin cancer are diagnosed around the world every year and account for around 2100 deaths. Studies done in Pakistan show that skin cancer is one of the top three cancers in Northern Pakistan, which comprises North Punjab, North Balochistan, NWFP and FATA. In NWFP, skin cancer is the most common cancer in men, where it accounts for 8.9% of all cancers, and is the second most common cancer in women, while in North Pakistan overall, skin cancer is the fourth leading cause of cancer in men (6.7% of all cancers) and the second leading cause of cancer in women (5.6% of all cancers). However, the incidence of skin cancer is likely higher than what has been estimated in these studies since it is often misdiagnosed or under-diagnosed. As we travel towards the south of Pakistan, the incidence of skin cancer declines. There are likely three reasons for this: The skin colour of people gets darker the further south we go. Since melanin is our skin’s primary defence against harmful UV rays from the sun, more melanin means higher built-in sun protection. People in the north live at higher altitudes and have higher UV exposure since at higher altitudes, less atmosphere is available to absorb UV radiation. People in the North are mostly outdoor workers and so, have higher overall sun exposure. Despite the lower incidence of skin cancer in darker skin types, dark skinned individuals still need to exercise caution since when they do get it, it tends to be a lot more deadly.   Melasma (also called chloasma) Melasma is a form of pigmentation where larger patches of pigment develop mainly on the face. It can affect both men and women, but is more common in women and is thought to be triggered by hormonal changes since it occurs in 10-15% of pregnant women (and is also sometimes called the mask of pregnancy), and in 10-25% of those taking oral contraceptives. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIHP) This happens after the skin has been subjected to injury or trauma in some form that leaves discolouration behind when it heals since melanocytes are known to also be stimulated by inflammation. Examples of PIHP include the marks left behind after acne, and in some cases, even by cosmetic procedures like dermabrasion, laser and chemical peels. What causes pigmentation? Pigmentation occurs when melanocytes begin to produce more melanin. Several factors can trigger an increase in melanin production but the single biggest factor is sun exposure. Since the primary role of melanin is to protect you from the sun, sun exposure stimulates melanin production leading, most immediately, to a tan. Excessive sun exposure over time makes the process go awry, leading to uneven pigmentation which is what we most commonly think about in association with the words pigmentation or hyperpigmentation. Once pigmentation has developed, sun exposure can also make it worse than it already is. Other factors that can lead to pigmentation include genetics, as in the case of freckles, hormones, as in the case of melasma, and inflammation as in the case of the marks left behind after inflammatory skin conditions like acne, dermatitis, psoriasis and other injuries to the skin. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation occurs because inflammation can lead to up-regulation of melanin production in the skin. Injury to the skin can counterintuitively, also be caused by aggressive or irritating skin products and treatments. These include abrasive scrubs, chemical exfoliants when incorrectly used, microneedling and even lasers when administered improperly without first patch testing the skin. Pigmentation also becomes more common with age because of the way our skin changes over the years: the number of melanocytes decreases while the ones that remain become bigger in size and their distribution becomes more focussed resulting in age spots. As previously mentioned, pigmentation, especially in the form of melasma, can also be affected by hormones. Melasma affects mainly women and is thought to occur when the hormones oestrogen and progesterone stimulate the overproduction of melanin when the skin is exposed to the sun. Melasma can also be caused by hormone-based medicines like oral contraceptives. Lastly, in some cases, hyperpigmentation can be a symptom of autoimmune and gastrointestinal disease, metabolic disorders and vitamin deficiencies and can also be triggered by non-hormonal oral medications including antibiotics and drugs used in chemotherapy, among others. How can I prevent and treat hyperpigmentation? Over the course of time, many options have become available to treat pigmentation. I’m going to cover the topical skincare ingredients and in-office procedures that are effective in the treatment of pigmentation in detail, in separate posts. What follows here, is an overview of how you can structure your everyday skincare routine to combat pigmentation if you have it. If you haven’t already read our blog on how to build a skincare routine from scratch, I would highly recommend you do that as well. When it comes to pigmentation, before anything else, it’s essential to identify what’s causing it and also treat the cause. For example, if your pigmentation is being caused in the aftermath of acne and eczema, it’s essential that you first manage those conditions to prevent new pigmented patches from being created. In addition to that, while sun protection is essential for everyone, it’s especially important if you’re prone to pigmentation since the sun is the single biggest cause of pigmentation and will invariably exacerbate it if you already have it. Look for a sunscreen that is broad spectrum and protects against both UVA and UVB radiation, and reapply it after sweating, swimming or other activities that could lead to it being washed off. If the sunscreen filters contained in the sunscreen aren’t photo-stable, also pay attention to reapplication every 2-3 hours throughout the day, while the sun is still out. Lastly make sure you take regular photographs to monitor improvement since improvements do take some time and it’s often easy to assume that something isn’t working when in fact, it is. Here’s a skincare routine you could try if you’re prone to pigmentation. Morning Wash your face with our Hydrating Gentle Daily Cleanser. Apply a few drops of our Serum Vitamin C, Niacinamide, Alpha Arbutin (launching soon). Moisturise with our Carbamide Intensive Hydration Cream to lock moisture in. Follow up with The Ultimate Sunscreen SPF 50 Ultra. Hydrating Daily Gentle Shop Now Salicylic Acid Cleanser Shop Now Moisturiser Cleanser Shop Now

What is retinol and how does it work? Retinol is a type of retinoid, i.e., a vitamin A derivative. Retinoids are the most used and studied anti-ageing compounds. Tretinoin, initially sold as Retin-A, was the first retinoid to be used as an acne treatment in the ‘70s; researchers however discovered that it also has other benefits: it fades precancerous lesions called actinic keratoses, evens out pigmentation and speeds up the rate at which the skin renews itself. In addition to retinol, retinoids include retinyl palmitate (this is the variant we’ve used in our Retin-oil Serum), retinaldehyde, adapalene, tretinoin and tazarotene, among others, where adapalene and tazarotene are synthetic retinoids while the rest, are naturally found in our bodies. Retinoic acid, or tretinoin, is the only natural retinoid that our skin can process. It binds to receptors in skin cells where it influences cellular processes like growth, differentiation, immune modulation and others. All natural retinoids must first be converted to retinoic acid before our skin can use them and their strength depends on the number of steps required for this conversion - something probably best illustrated by a diagram. Synthetic retinoids also have variable strengths but don’t need to be converted to retinoic acid to work. A side note on retinyl palmitate Since retinyl palmitate is the retinoid we’ve used in our serums, here are some more things we think you might like to know about it. Retinyl palmitate is a combination of retinol and the fatty acid palmitic acid. It is found naturally in our skin and is the most abundant form of vitamin A storage in animals. ​​It’s also an antioxidant that prevents visible signs of skin ageing and protects skin from the harmful effects of pollution and UV. How retinol slows down ageing Your skin is constantly shedding old, dead cells and making new ones to replace them, so much so, that while you’re young, your skin completely renews itself every 28 days on average. As you age, this process slows down and old dead cells begin to accumulate making your skin look dull, dry and wrinkled. Retinoids are known to be the gold standard in anti-ageing ingredients. They stimulate the metabolism of skin cells so dead skin sheds off and is replaced by new skin more quickly. They also reduce the amount of melanin, or pigment, that your skin produces. These two effects combined cause dark spots to fade and make your skin brighter and more even-toned. Because of the effect that retinoids have on skin cell turnover, a lot of people are under the impression that retinoids are exfoliants. This however, is not true. Chemical exfoliants work by breaking the bonds that hold dead skin cells to the surface. Retinoids work by stimulating the production of new skin cells and affecting how they mature - unlike chemical exfoliants, they aren’t able to break the bonds that hold dead cells to the skin’s surface. Retinoids encourage the production of new blood vessels, and of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, and reduce the degradation of these substances by slowing down the activity of enzymes that break them down. They also strengthen your skin barrier, reducing water lost through the skin. This results in skin that is firmer, supple, and more elastic. They are also antioxidants, and deactivate free radicals that damage your skin and cause skin ageing. Lastly, retinoids are also known for their anti-acne effects so if that’s something you’re prone to, you have an additional incentive to incorporate them into your skincare routine. While retinoids don’t result in a dramatic difference overnight - they require at least 12 weeks of consistent use - a well-formulated product visibly reduces sun damage, brown spots, lines, wrinkles, skin laxity and enlarged pores. In short, retinoids are like a reset button for your skin and encourage it to behave like a younger version of itself. So how can you incorporate retinol into your skincare routine if the signs of ageing are your main concern? Here’s a quick routine that you could use as a starting point: Morning: Wash your face with our Hydrating Gentle Daily Cleanser, followed up by our Carbamide Intensive Hydration Cream. Finish up with The Ultimate Sunscreen SPF 50+ Ultra. Night: Wash your face with our Resurfacing Face Wash. Start by using this 3 times a week if your skin is sensitive and slowly build frequency of use. On the nights you don’t use this, use our Hydrating Gentle Daily Cleanser, or even our Butter But Better Cleansing Balm, if balms are more your thing. Follow it up with our Carbamide Intensive Hydration Cream. If you want an extra boost, I highly recommend adding a few drops of our Sea Buckthorn Oil to your moisturiser at night. Finish up with our Retin-oil Serum. Start at 0.2% 3 times per week and if you think your skin is tolerating that well, slowly build up first use frequency, and then strength. When you should start using retinol and how to incorporate retinol into your skincare routine The fibroblasts - special types of cells that make collagen and other important substances - in your skin begin to slow down in your 20s making it a great decade to add a retinoid into your skincare routine. However, since retinoids can cause undesirable side effects when you first start them, start with the gentlest available option and build up slowly. If your skin is sensitive, this option might be all that your skin is able to tolerate. And this is okay. Lower retinoid strengths take longer to show effects but in the long-run, they’re all effective anti-ageing ingredients. Also stick with a gentle option if you’re young since you’ll benefit even from low strengths and doses. In the case of our Retin-oil Serum, which comes in three strength variants - 0.2%, 0.5% and 1.0% - we would recommend starting out with the 0.2% 3 times a week and then building up and only moving on to a higher strength if your skin is easily able to tolerate what you’re currently using. Each time you move to a stronger variant, start by incorporating it into your routine 3 times a week before increasing frequency of use. Don’t let impatience convince you to load up on retinoids, since you’ll only end up burning your face off in the process. Because retinoids result in increased skin cell turnover, you’ll experience a few weeks of flakiness, irritation, and purging (if your skin is prone to acne) when you start. By starting slowly and loading up on moisturiser, you can mitigate these side-effects. They do, however, also usually subside on their own as your skin adjusts to the product. Mild exfoliation can also help with flakiness. What about combining retinoids with other products? While this is something I’ve personally done without adverse effects since I don’t have sensitive skin and am an experienced skincare user, it’s not something I would recommend for most people as it might lead to irritation. This is especially true if your skin is sensitive, or you’re new to skincare. If you would like to use other strong actives like chemical exfoliants, benzoyl peroxide and vitamin C in your routine alongside retinoids, use them on the nights that you don’t use retinoids. Like anything in skincare - or in life - continued results are dependent on consistency of use. If you stop using retinoids, your skin will go back to baseline. Precautions to take when using retinol As previously mentioned, retinoids can cause dryness, peeling and irritation. While these issues can be mitigated by starting slowly, you need to be careful if you have an underlying condition like eczema or rosacea since retinoids can potentially aggravate it. Patch test first, start with the mildest available option and keep your skin moisturised. If you have sensitive skin, you can apply a heavy moisturiser before applying the retinoid to reduce the chance of irritation. Retinoids can also make your skin more sensitive to other products, procedures, and sunlight so as I mentioned previously, avoid mixing them with other strong actives and stop using them for at least a week before things like facials, laser treatments, chemical peels and waxing. In addition, since retinoids are teratogenic and can cause abnormal foetal development, you shouldn’t use them if you’re pregnant, trying to get pregnant, or breastfeeding. Retinoids are also sensitive to heat and light and should be kept in an opaque container, in a cool, dark place, away from direct sunlight and ideally, used only during the night. As with most actives, to reap maximum benefit, use up the product within 3 months of opening the bottle. Can you use retinoids around the eye area? Yes you can! However, since the skin around the eye area is especially delicate and thin, you need to be careful to not use a product that’s too strong. Look for an eye cream especially formulated for the eye area, or you can use our Retin-oil Serum 0.2% since that uses retinyl palmitate, which is a much gentler retinoid. Start slowly and see how much your skin can easily tolerate to avoid risking irritation. Retinoids and acne In addition to their anti-ageing effects, topical retinoids are also known for their effects on acne and acne scars. One of the causes of acne is the improper shedding of dead skin cells. When the bonds between dead skin cells don’t dissolve properly, they clump together making it more likely that they’ll clog your pores. Retinoids regulate skin cell turnover, and prevent this from happening. Retinoids regulate the skin’s immune system and reduce inflammation and are also able to decrease the activity of sebaceous glands - the skin’s oil producing glands - and melanocytes, resulting in clear skin, reduced breakouts and smaller pores. So what’s the best way to incorporate retinoids into your skincare routine if you have acne vulgaris? As always, start slow and build up slowly. I recommend combining them with salicylic acid for maximum benefit, in a routine that might look like this: Morning: Wash your face with our Hydrating Gentle Daily Cleanser, followed up by our Carbamide Intensive Hydration Cream if your skin is normal to dry, and our AccuHydra Hydrating Gel Cream if it’s oily. Finish up with The Ultimate Sunscreen. Night: Wash your face with our Salicylic Acid Cleanser. Follow it up with the same moisturiser you used in the morning. If you want an extra boost, I highly recommend adding a few drops of our Sea Buckthorn Oil to your moisturiser at night. Finish up with our Retin-oil Serum. Start at 0.2% 3 times per week and if you think your skin is tolerating that well, slowly build up use frequency and strength. These are general recommendations but as always, feel free to reach out to us for recommendations more geared towards your skin specific type and concerns. Other benefits of retinol In addition to helping combat skin ageing and acne, retinoids are also beneficial for other skin issues. Here’s a quick summary. Because retinoids stimulate cell turnover, and lead to an increase in the production of substances like collagen and elastin, they also help plump your skin, shrink your pores and smooth out your skin’s texture. They are also highly effective for uneven skin tone, skin dullness, pigmentation and melasma because of their suppressive effect on melanocytes - the skin’s pigment producing factories. As already mentioned, start slowly with retinoids to avoid irritation since irritation can also often trigger pigmentation, especially in people with darker skin tones. According to the American Osteopathic College of Dermatology, retinoids are also effective for keratosis pilaris. Lastly, retinoids thicken the epidermis and act as antioxidants, thus helping to protect the skin against external stressors such as pollution.

Disclaimer: not every doctor is the same, nor does everyone experience the same side effects from any given drug. That said, given the sheer number of horror stories I’ve heard, I do believe that it’s my duty to share the information that follows so you can make an informed decision about what you choose to put in, and on, your body. My legs hurt and I didn’t know why. My muscles felt stiff as if they were turning to bone. I had always been very fit, but I was struggling to climb up the stairs. I also felt fatigued and depressed, ready to burst into tears at the slightest provocation. I dismissed these symptoms initially as tiredness. As they worsened over the course of the following few weeks however, I had an epiphany. Could they be the side effects of the drug I had been taking for the last one month? I’d had severe acne for years and my last visit to the dermatologist had culminated in a prescription for isotretinoin, a.k.a. accutane - the purported miracle cure for acne. I called the dermatologist who had prescribed the drug and told him about my symptoms only for him to deny that the drug could possibly have symptoms at all. I come from a family of doctors myself, and was well aware that isotretinoin is a chemotherapy drug that comes with a sleuth of side effects. Questioning both the competence and integrity of the doctor I had visited, I left the drug, and needless to say, also the doctor, and within a week, my symptoms began to normalise - I wasn’t going to say goodbye to my health trying to fix my skin. When it comes to stories about acne medications though, I’ve heard worse. I’ve had clients who’ve experienced hepatitis, severe dehydration and anal fissures because of accutane. While these may be some of its less common side effects, they still occur in 10-30% of those taking the medicine. And these aren’t the only ones. Among other things, those taking the medication can also experience severe hair loss, decreased night vision, abnormal liver function, low blood counts and increased blood sugar and cholesterol. It also has some more common side effects that are experienced by more than 30% of the people taking it. These include headaches, fever and sweating, pain in the bones, nausea and vomiting, severe dryness of the eyes, mouth and nose, and changes in eyesight. When it comes to acne though, isotretinoin isn’t the only scary drug. Other commonly prescribed drugs like hormones and antibiotics aren’t without their challenges. I’ve attached a video below, where two girls who experienced acne, describe their experience with acne medications. One of them developed intracranial hypertension - pressure build up in the brain - as a result of antibiotics and had to undergo a type of surgery called a lumbar puncture to relieve the pressure. Long term antibiotic use also alters the composition of the gut microbiome which is essential for health. Alterations in the gut microbiome are related to various diseases including cardiovascular disease and cancer, and increase the risk of premature, all-cause mortality. So the question is: If you have acne, do you really need to put your body through all this? Here’s why you don’t: Medications aren’t a permanent cure for acne. In most cases, the acne returns after you stop taking the drug. This is true even if the drug in question is isotretinoin. A lot of people tend to relapse within 6 months to 2 years of completing a course of isotretinoin. Doctor’s typically put them on another course of the medicine and the side effects are always worse the second time around. Since no acne medication is without side effects, taking medicines for acne long-term is simply not sustainable and will destroy your overall health over time. In all the cases I’ve touched upon above, including my own, the acne was later managed simply by having a good skincare routine. A good way to understand the importance of skincare is like this: just like the food you eat on a regular basis has an impact on your overall health, what you put on your skin has an impact on the health of your skin. Ingredients in skincare have an impact on the chemistry of your skin - this includes ingredients in products like cleansers that people usually don’t pay much attention to. While skincare does require consistency and patience (which let’s face it, so do drugs) and often, also some hit and trial, it’s still worth the investment since it has no side effects and is the only sustainable way to great skin long-term. Before I wind this blog up, I’d like to end by answering one more question - and the answer to it, isn’t what you’d most probably expect. Who should you take skincare advice from? The answer is not your dermatologist. As someone who comes from a family of doctors - we also own a hospital - I’m well acquainted with what is and isn’t taught in medical school. While dermatologists are taught the anatomy, physiology and pathology of skin, they are not cosmetic formulators, nor is cosmetic formulation covered in medical school. Dermatologists who do have solid skincare knowledge have it because they’ve done their own research - most however, simply use their medical degree as a reason for why they should be an authority on the subject but that honestly doesn’t mean anything. The skincare that dermatologists recommend typically consist of products that different pharmaceutical companies have pitched to them, not of products whose formulations and ingredients they’ve researched and understand the chemistry of. So who should you take skincare advice from? If you don’t have access to a qualified aesthetician, do your own research. The internet has made all manner of information accessible to everyone. Find industry experts - make sure they’re credible, the internet also has a lot of misinformation and garbage - and follow them on YouTube and Instagram and begin to learn about your skin. Here’s a post on how to build a skincare routine from scratch and another one on acne to get you started. However, if you don’t want to put the requisite effort into reading or research, or perhaps you don’t have the time to, don’t worry, we’ve got you covered. Simply drop us a message on WhatsApp (+92-302-222-8349) and we’ll take care of the rest for you. ♥️

In an earlier post on how to build a skincare routine from scratch, I discussed four key steps that make up any routine. These include three core steps - cleansing, moisturising and protection with SPF - and one supplementary step - treating specific skin concerns with active ingredients. I also recommended limiting the treatment step to at most three active ingredients where one - which should also be the first one you add - should be a chemical exfoliant. These wonderful ingredients have a lot to offer to almost everyone after they’ve hit puberty. In part 1 of this series I covered what exfoliation is and how it benefits the skin, while in part 2 I defined the two major categories of exfoliation and the ingredients available to us in each category. If you haven’t yet read those, you can read them here and here. In this part I’m going to cover how to incorporate exfoliation into your skincare routine for maximum benefit. I’m going to start with general recommendations and end with detailed guidance for anyone looking to incorporate one of the exfoliants in our range into their skincare routine. I’ll also summarise our product related guidelines for you in a table at the end to make all the information easier for you to process. At present, we have four products that contain chemical exfoliants: our Salicylic Acid Cleanser, Resurfacing Face Wash, Salicylic Acid Pore Cleansing Emulsion and Salicylic Acid Moisturiser. The first two products in this list are exfoliating cleansers and combine two skincare steps in one. And yes, as you’ve probably guessed, we love salicylic acid. Given our strong relationship with acne, we’re huge believers in its skin-clearing powers. As you read what follows, bear in mind that there is no one size fits all formula. While you’re welcome to start with my recommendations as is, it might take some hit and trial to find the perfect exfoliation routine for you. General Recommendations Physical Exfoliation As I’ve previously mentioned, I’m not a huge fan of physical exfoliation. Chemical exfoliation has a lot more to offer and given the huge range of available exfoliating chemicals in different product formats available, it’s usually easy enough to find a product that works well for you, even if your skin is sensitive. However, if you do opt for physical exfoliation, the process of doing it is simple enough. Here’s how. Choose a product that has soft scrubbing particles or scrubbing particles with smooth edges. Depending on the consistency of the product, apply it on wet to damp skin and then massage it in small circles using low pressure. Resist the temptation to scrub too hard and to keep scrubbing for an extended period of time. Also try to not go over the same area more than five times. Start by using a scrub twice a week and slowly work your way up but don’t do more than your skin can tolerate - this threshold varies from person to person. Overdoing it will compromise your skin barrier and result in skin dehydration. It will result also result in skin thinning, redness, sensitivity and irritation - all symptoms that no one wants. Chemical Exfoliation If you’re new to chemical exfoliation, start slowly with a product that has a low concentration of acids and then work your way up. Some initial tingling that lasts for a few minutes after you apply the product is normal, especially if you’re new to acids. If you’re using a mild leave-on exfoliant, starting by using it twice a week is a good idea. If it’s a mild wash off one, you might even be able to use it 3-4 times per week without irritating your skin. Err on the side of caution when starting to exfoliate as despite the numerous benefits that exfoliation has to offer, overdoing it can have some unpleasant side effects. Always moisturise after you exfoliate to maintain a strong skin barrier. If your skin feels sensitive, tight or dry the next day, take a break from exfoliation till it recovers and then cut back on either the frequency with which you exfoliate or on the strength of the exfoliant that you’re using. You can use more than one exfoliant in your routine, but introduce them one at a time and avoid using them at the same time to avoid any unwanted reaction. While all skin types can benefit from exfoliation, it’s always a good idea to patch test products, especially if you’ve experienced product allergies in the past or have overly sensitive skin. Exfoliating makes your skin more sensitive to the sun so don’t forget to wear broad spectrum SPF daily. Incorporating Exfoliants From Our Range - Recommendations By Skin Type Sensitive Skin Ageing Skin | Pigmentation-Prone Skin | Dry, Dehydrated Skin Oily Skin | Acne Prone Skin Fungal Acne Prone Skin And that’s it! Here are links to the mentioned exfoliants and a table that summarises some key points for you. If you’re still confused, or have questions, feel free to reach out to us and our team will be more than happy to help! :) Hydrating Daily Gentle Shop Now Salicylic Acid Cleanser Shop Now Moisturiser Cleanser Shop Now

Several people have reached out to us to ask about the differences between our cleansers so I decided to summarise them in a blog. If you're not sure of why using a "good" cleanser is important, and how "bad" cleansers can damage your skin, I'd highly I'd recommend that you read this. I’ll start this post with a table that summarises key information about each cleanser and then discuss each one in a little more detail before telling you how to incorporate it into your skincare routine. If you still have questions after reading this, don’t hesitate to reach out. Hydrating Daily Gentle Shop Now Salicylic Acid Cleanser Shop Now Moisturiser Cleanser Shop Now Hydrating Gentle Daily Cleanser   What is it? Our Hydrating Gentle Daily Cleanser is a fragrance-free cleanser formulated without any active ingredients at a skin friendly pH of ~5. It’s sulfate-free and uses ultra-gentle, coconut-derived surfactants to dissolve grime and impurities without stripping your skin.These properties make it an excellent daily use option for all skin types and particularly beneficial for sensitive or sensitised skin as this skin type tends to have a compromised skin barrier - where the skin’s barrier is the topmost layer of the skin that functions primarily to keep irritants out and hydration in - and is unable to tolerate most active ingredients. It has a gel cream texture that’s mildly grainy due to the presence of finely ground oats. Oats are highly beneficial for helping to alleviate conditions such as dry skin and eczema. They are also valuable for sensitive skin as they help improve the skin’s barrier function. It also contains green tea extract, which is a rich source of antioxidants that help fend off skin damaging free radicals, along with allantoin and glycerin, which help soothe and hydrate. Who is it for? This product is for anyone and everyone. Simply put, it’s like the best friend you seek comfort from at night after tackling the stresses of the day. Just like you, your skin also deals with environmental stress: air pollution, UV radiation, and cigarette smoke, among other things. Our Hydrating Gentle Daily Cleanser helps your skin deal better with environmental stress by easily removing dirt, grime and pollution without damaging your skin barrier or irritating your skin. Bonus? It also removes light makeup. In addition to being suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, this product is also fungal acne safe, a condition that sufferers will know is tough to shop for. Usage directions and pairing This product will pair well with anything. To use, massage a dime sized amount into wet skin for 30 seconds to a minute and rinse off with cool to lukewarm water. Follow up with a suitable moisturiser while your skin is still damp, to lock hydration in. Butter But Better Cleansing Balm What is it? Our Butter But Better Cleansing Balm is a fragrance-free, rinse-off formula designed to easily but gently remove things like makeup and sunscreen, which don’t come off easily with water or water-based cleansers. It’s also perfect as: the first step cleanser in a double cleanse a makeup or eye makeup remover a stand-alone cleanser for dry or sensitive skin Rinse-off cleansing balms and oils like this one are our favourite kinds of makeup removers because of how gentle they are. They don’t tend to contain harsh surfactants and even heavy, difficult makeup comes off with a rinse - no pulling or tugging at your skin with cloth and cotton pads required. Our Butter But Better Cleansing Balm easily rinses off without leaving a residue. Who is it for? This product is also suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. The only exception is skin prone to fungal acne. If you have fungal acne, don’t use it as anything more than an eye makeup remover. Your best bet is a gentle, fungal-acne safe micellar water instead. Usage directions and pairing This product will pair well with anything. To use, scrape it off with the back of your nail and massage it into dry skin till your makeup has loosened - if you’re wearing makeup. Wet your fingers and massage some more till it turns milky. Rinse it off with lukewarm water. If you’re looking to double cleanse, follow up with the Hydrating Gentle Daily Cleanser for a gentle cleansing experience or one of the two exfoliating cleansers below - Salicylic Acid Cleanser and Resurfacing Face Wash - for a deeper cleanse. Don’t forget to moisturise at the end! Salicylic Acid Cleanser What is it? Our bestselling Salicylic Acid Cleanser is a cream cleanser formulated with salicylic acid a.k.a. BHA. Salicylic acid is a chemical exfoliant. This means that it gets rid of dead cells from the surface of the skin resulting in several benefits. These include a brighter complexion, relief from breakouts and a fight against the signs of ageing. In the world of chemical exfoliants, salicylic acid is unique in its ability to be able to penetrate deep within your pores to unclog them. This ability, along with its antibacterial and anti-fungal properties, make it an extremely effective agent in the treatment and prevention of acne, which includes blackheads, whiteheads, and pimples. Most salicylic acid formulas however, tend to be harsh and attempt to strip your skin, resulting in more harm than good in the long-run. Our Salicylic Acid Cleanser leverages gentle surfactants and combines them with grapeseed oil and honey to nourish and hydrate your skin, resulting in a formula that’s exceptionally effective, and gentle at the same time. Our current Salicylic Acid Cleanser is formulated with 1% salicylic acid and 2.5% glycolic acid. We’ve used higher salicylic acid concentrations in this formula in the past but over time have discovered that this concentration works as well as the higher concentrations, but without the associated irritation. Who it’s for and how to pair This product is suitable for all skin types, except fungal acne prone skin, but with some caveats: If you’re already using chemical exfoliants, carefully consider the addition of another one. Refrain from using multiple products containing chemical exfoliants in the same day to avoid skin irritation. While exfoliation offers multiple skin benefits - it’s my personal skin care holy grail - over-exfoliating can do more harm than good. If your skin is sensitive, introduce the product into your routine slowly. Instead of starting with daily use, start using the product 3 times a week, and slowly build up to daily use, only if your skin is able to tolerate it. No skincare product works uniformly across the board for everyone and despite our creamy formula, salicylic acid can still be drying for some people - usually people who already have dry skin. If you’re one of those people, you might want to try our Resurfacing Face Wash, which has a lower concentration of salicylic acid, instead. Lastly, keep chemical exfoliants away from your eye area and always wear sun protection, especially while using them. This is because despite their numerous benefits, they can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Usage directions To use, massage a dime sized amount into wet skin for 30 seconds to a minute and rinse off with cool to lukewarm water. Follow up with a suitable moisturiser while your skin is still damp, to lock hydration in. Resurfacing Face Wash What is it? Our Resurfacing Face Wash is a luxurious, sulfate-free cleansing cream formulated with gentle, coconut-derived surfactants that easily, but gently, dissolve grime and impurities without stripping your skin. It’s key active ingredients are 4% AHA - glycolic acid and lactic acid, and 0.5% BHA - salicylic acid. These acids are all chemical exfoliants. As previously mentioned, salicylic acid is able to penetrate and exfoliate within the pore, while AHAs only act at the skin’s surface. However, they have hydrating properties that salicylic acid doesn’t, which usually makes them the better choice for drier skin types. Collectively, these ingredients work to lift away dead skin cells and reveal a brighter complexion. They also help fight acne, congestion, pigmentation and skin ageing. In addition to chemical exfoliants, our Resurfacing Face Wash also contains some other wonderful ingredients: Turmeric: Among other things, turmeric has potent antioxidant properties and helps protect skin cells from damage. It also has healing and anti-ageing properties. Honey: Honey helps soothe and hydrate skin and inhibits the growth of microbes. Grapeseed oil and almond oil: These contain omega fatty acids and help keep skin supple and moisturised. Who is it for? This product is suitable for all skin types, except fungal acne prone skin, but with some caveats: If you’re already using chemical exfoliants, carefully consider the addition of another one. Refrain from using multiple products containing chemical exfoliants in the same day to avoid skin irritation. While exfoliation offers multiple skin benefits - it’s my personal skin care holy grail - over-exfoliating can do more harm than good. If your skin is sensitive, introduce the product into your routine slowly. You can even try starting with the Salicylic Acid Cleanser instead - it has a lower overall concentration of acids, and yes, can be used by people without acne as well. If you choose to start with this however, instead of starting with daily use, start by using the product 3 times a week, and slowly build up to daily use if your skin is able to tolerate it. Lastly, keep chemical exfoliants away from your eye area and always wear sun protection, especially while using them. This is because despite their numerous benefits, they can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Usage directions To use, massage a dime sized amount into wet skin for 30 seconds to a minute and rinse off with cool to lukewarm water. Follow up with a suitable moisturiser while your skin is still damp, to lock hydration in.

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant that’s usually marketed as being able to hold a thousand times its weight in water - which is debatable, but more on that later. It occurs naturally in the skin where it helps give skin its structure and keeps it plump and hydrated. Like collagen and elastin, hyaluronic acid also decreases in our skin as we age, making ageing skin more susceptible to volume loss, dryness, sagging, and wrinkles. In cosmetics, hyaluronic acid tends to be used in one of two ways: topically, or as in injectable - think dermal fillers, but in this post I’ll limit my discussion to its topical use. Two popular myths around its topical use abound: Myth 1: Hyaluronic acid is an exfoliant - people assume this because of the word acid in the name. Myth 2: Hyaluronic acid is an anti-ageing ingredient. Both are not true - hyaluronic acid is a humectant, i.e. a substance that helps the skin hold on to water. While essential for skin health when inside the skin, its molecules are too large to be absorbed when it’s applied topically. Topical application can at best, hydrate the skin’s surface so it appears plumper, and fine lines get smoothed over - but the effect is temporary. Smaller molecules of hyaluronic acid do exist, and while they are able to go relatively deeper into the skin, they don’t bind as much water. However, even low molecular weight hyaluronic acid isn’t able to penetrate too deep and only a small fraction tends to make it to the base of the epidermis. Unlike molecular weight hyaluronic acid, low molecular weights of the ingredient have also been associated with skin irritation, where the smaller the molecule, the greater the irritation. And they tend to be especially problematic if your skin barrier is compromised. A number of people who’re using hyaluronic acid and have a “good” skincare routine but still have skin irritation, see marked improvement once they cut the ingredient out. As Harper’s Bazaar nicely summarises: “Editors and Redditors alike have written about the redness and dryness they believe to be caused by topical HA. Instagrammers and influencers have eliminated it from their routines, with impressive results. The Mixed Makeup Facebook group recently held an “HA-free” challenge, with hundreds of comments detailing individual HA sensitivities and reporting improvements. One-star reviews of popular HA serums point to extreme irritation, beauty brands have issued usage warnings for their HA-laced products, one medical-grade HA ointment advises patients that “prolonged use may give rise to sensitisation phenomena,” and hyaluronic acid injectables are increasingly associated with late-onset inflammation. And here’s where things get really interesting. I mentioned in the beginning that hyaluronic acid is marketed as being able to hold up to a thousand times its weight in water. This is true of the version of the substance that’s in our bodies - owing to its very high molecular weight and large molecular volume - but there’s no evidence to prove that the hyaluronic acid found in cosmetics is able to do that. The Stanford Chemicals Company, a hyaluronic acid manufacturer, states that topical hyaluronic acid has limited ability to retain water, and this ability also depends on the size of the molecule in question. And according to the case files of a lawsuit filed against Peter Thomas Roth’s Water Drench line, “This outlandish claim [that hyaluronic acid can hold up to a thousand times its weight in water], is entirely unsupported by science. Published data from actual studies by real chemists establishes that hyaluronic acid binds a small amount of water, equivalent to about half the weight of the hyaluronic acid, or between 9 and 19 molecules.” What About Sodium Hyaluronate? Often when you find hyaluronic acid advertised on a product, the ingredients list contains sodium hyaluronate instead. Sodium hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid and is also found naturally in the body. In fact, in the human body, hyaluronic acid tends to exist as sodium hyaluronate. Sodium hyaluronate exhibits similar properties as hyaluronic acid. However, it’s more readily absorbed into the skin. It’s also less prone to oxidation and able to maintain a longer shelf life. Like hyaluronic acid, it’s also available in different molecular weights, where heavier weights deliver surface hydration and lower weights are able to go deeper into the skin. The Verdict Hyaluronic acid has become an extremely popular humectant. Anyone moderately interested in skincare is aware of what it is and it’s popping up in products everywhere. However, hyaluronic acid falls short of all the hype it gets for several reasons. Evidence doesn’t support the claim that when topically applied, it is able to hold up to a thousand times its weight in water. High molecular weight hyaluronic acid - the good kind - simply sits on top of your skin. There’s also evidence that hyaluronic acid results in skin dehydration. A 2018 study funded by Estée Lauder found that in humid environments it made the skin look temporarily hydrated but actually had the opposite impact and increased the rate of water loss through the skin. . Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can go deeper but is associated with skin irritation and the lower the weight, the higher the potential for irritation. A study in 2016 also found that low molecular weight hyaluronic acid also increased water loss by over 55% It’s not all bad news though and there is evidence to suggest that hyaluronic acid aids in wound healing. As a humectant though, I don’t believe that it’s the gold standard that it’s made out to be. Several other wonderful options exist. Here are some of my favourites: Glycerin. Glycerin is also found naturally in the skin. It’s an extremely popular humectant in skin care because it’s a fantastic moisturizer for all skin types, especially for dry, or dehydrated skin. It’s low molecular weight allows it to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin to provide lasting hydration. Glycerin also doesn’t pose any risk of irritation even at very high concentrations and in fact, helps soothe irritated skin and reduces skin redness. In addition to providing hydration, it strengthens the skin barrier and protects the skin against environmental stressors and harsh ingredients like sodium lauryl sulfate. It also helps facilitate the skin’s natural exfoliation process. Panthenol. Panthenol, or provitamin B5, is a humectant and an emollient - a substance that seals cracks in the skin, thus helping reduce water loss and blocking the entrance of irritants. Panthenol moisturises the skin and helps it stay soft, supple and elastic. It is also anti-inflammatory, aids in wound healing and helps repair the skin’s barrier. It is also extremely well tolerated and helps reduce irritation. Urea. Also known as carbamide, urea is naturally found in the skin and makes up 8.5% of the skin’s natural moisturising factor. Like glycerin, urea also has small molecules that are easily absorbed into the skin’s deeper layers of the skin and help provide lasting hydration. The level of urea in our skin also decreases as we age, making us more susceptible to skin dryness. Urea levels are also significantly reduced in dry skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis.Topically applied urea successfully tops up the skin’s own urea stores, making it an effective treatment for dry skin and eczema, and has also been shown to reduce the skin’s susceptibility to irritants such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, urea has also been shown to kill acne-causing bacteria and inhibit the growth of the fungus that causes fungal acne. If You Still Want To Use Hyaluronic Acid... If you still want to try incorporating hyaluronic acid into your routine, or if you’ve been using it already and feel like it works for you, make sure that you use it right. Don’t use it if you’re young and your skin is already functioning well. But if you’re not, and are looking to try it for skin hydration, here’s how to use it. Look for products that have a maximum concentration of 1% - in fact, lower concentrations of up to 0.5% might be better. Higher percentages can dehydrate the skin, as discussed earlier. Give preference to higher molecular weights and don’t use more than one product with the ingredient and avoid using it in dry climates. Apply it on damp skin and follow up with an occlusive moisturiser to seal in hydration. And of course, why try applying it topically at all when you can instead focus on trying to boost your skin’s own production of the ingredient. Evidence suggests that oral hyaluronic acid supplements help relieve the symptoms of dry skin while ingredients that increase skin cell turnover, like glycolic acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid, found in products like our Salicylic Acid Cleanser and Salicylic Acid Emulsion, also help increase the skin’s own production of hyaluronic acid. A lightweight, hydrating moisturiser formulated with five superstar humectants - including the three I discussed earlier: panthenol, urea, glycerin, honey, and allantoin. It’s a beautiful formula that simply disappears into the skin, locking in intense hydration, without stickiness or residue. It works exceptionally well for all skin types, including oily skin, and all seasons and if your skin is very dry, it can also be layered under more occlusive moisturizers. It’s also formulated without silicones, formaldehyde, phthalates, fragrance, essential oils, or anything else that irritates the skin, is suitable for fungal acne-prone, and sensitive skin. Click the link below to learn more. Hydrating Daily Gentle Shop Now Salicylic Acid Cleanser Shop Now Moisturiser Cleanser Shop Now

Contents Introduction: The Benefits of Using Oils In Your Skin Care Routine What Is Sea Buckthorn Oil and How Does It Benefit the Skin Summarising the Benefits of Sea Buckthorn Oil Extracting Sea Buckthorn Oil Incorporating Sea Buckthorn Oil Into Your Skin Care Routine Introduction: The Benefits of Using Oils In Your Skin Care Routine Plant oils are commonly used for multiple purposes all around the world. They possess compounds that can give them antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, among several others. These properties make them attractive alternative treatments for dry skin conditions, i.e. conditions associated with a disruption of the skin’s barrier. Oils can be a fantastic addition to any skin care routine - provided you know which ones to use for your skin type, as not all are created equal. The impact of different oils on human skin varies, depending upon the unique mix of fatty acids and other compounds present in the oil. The ratio of fatty acids in an oil tends to be a major determinant of the oil’s capacity to repair the skin barrier. Generally, oils with a higher ratio of linoleic acid to oleic acid tend to benefit the skin barrier, while oils with a higher ratio of oleic acid might be detrimental to it. Oils are able to create an occlusive film on the skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), so skin remains hydrated - a characteristic that is essential for the maintenance of skin health. Oils are also able to help protect, regenerate and soften the skin, relieve inflammation and maintain proper structure of the skin’s intracellular matrix. They are important in the formation of the permeability barrier, which contributes to the acidification of the stratum corneum, promoting its structural integrity and barrier function. Fatty acids in oils serve as building blocks for complex lipids in sebum that impart a self-disinfecting activity to the skin surface. Skin that is deficient in fatty acids is said to have a compromised barrier and is more susceptible to dryness and flaking, irritation, and even infection. Fatty acids also play an important role in the biological synthesis of cell membrane components, or inflammatory mediators, called eicosanoids including prostaglandins, prostacyclins, thromboxanes, and leukotrienes. When it comes to the outward appearance of the skin, the health of its internal structure is important to consider as skin with a healthy internal structure also has a better outward appearance. Before we move on to the next segment, it is important to mention that the oils being referred to over here are not the same as the fragrant plant extracts commonly known as “essential oils”. Essential oils are concentrated, hydrophobic liquids that contain volatile compounds. They are called “essential” oils because they contain the compounds that give a plant its characteristic “essence” or fragrance. We actively don’t recommend using these on your skin because of their potential to sensitise or irritate the skin. What Is Sea Buckthorn Oil and How Does It Benefit the Skil The name hippophae rhamnoides, the scientific name for sea buckthorn, comes from an amalgamation of two Greek words, “hippo”, which means horse, and “phaos”, which means to shine. The plant got this name because in ancient times its leaves were used as horse fodder and gave the horses that ate them a shiny coat. Sea buckthorn has a long history of application as food and medicine. Sea buckthorn oil is obtained via mechanical cold pressing or solvent extraction from the fruit and/or seeds of the sea buckthorn plant. Cold pressed sea buckthorn oil is a rich source of antioxidants, vitamin C, flavonoids, also known as vitamin P, polyphenols and polysaccharides. Sea buckthorn seed oil and sea buckthorn fruit oil both have different compositions, appearances and benefits. The oil from the berries is a thick, deep red-orange liquid with a tart taste and a characteristic scent. It has the highest concentration, at 30-35% by weight, of palmitoleic (omega-7) acid, of all vegetable oils. While both oils contain a wide range of essential unsaturated fatty acids (UFAs), the concentration of this fatty acid is much lower in the seed oil. Palmitoleic acid is highly valued in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory properties and its ability to protect cells against oxidative stress. It also helps with skin dryness, atopic dermatitis, also known as eczema, the maintenance of skin elasticity, and in the improvement of skin wrinkles. As mentioned previously, both sea buckthorn fruit and seed oils are rich in unsaturated fatty acids. However, the seed oil is richer in polyunsaturated fatty acids, while the oil of the fruit is richer in monounsaturated fatty acids. Unsaturated fatty acids work synergistically to improve blood circulation in the skin, thereby resulting in the more efficient removal of excess toxins and an increased availability of nutrients and oxygen for the skin. In the deeper layers of the skin, unsaturated fatty acids are converted to prostaglandins, a group of lipids that, among other things, are involved in dealing with the body’s physiological response to injury. Fatty acids are also constituents of the skin barrier where they help the skin retain water so it stays supple and also help prevent dryness and attenuate the skin’s ageing process. They also play a role in the regulation of sebaceous gland function and can result in the improvement of conditions like acne. Sea buckthorn oil also contains saturated fatty acids that form a protective barrier/occlusive film on the skin thereby reducing transepidermal water loss and keeping the skin from becoming dehydrated. They also help stabilise the oil and increase its resistance to rancidity and oxidation. Sea buckthorn berries, and by extension the oil obtained from them, are also an exceptionally rich source of vitamins, and around 14 have been identified in the berries including vitamins A, C, D, E, F, K, P, and B complex. Sea buckthorn berries have about 14 times more vitamin C than oranges. They also contain several other beneficial compounds such as amino acids, minerals, and phenolic acids, that help limit the formation of free radicals, protect cells against their harmful effects and also help counteract the effects of UV damage on the skin. Both sea buckthorn seed oil, and sea buckthorn berry oil, are rich sources of vitamin E and phytosterols. Phytosterols are cholesterol-like molecules that help protect against the reduction in collagen synthesis that results after UV exposure and may even stimulate the synthesis of collagen. Unlike sea buckthorn seed oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil is also rich in carotenoids. Carotenoids are red, orange and yellow organic pigments produced by several plants and other living species and are responsible for giving sea buckthorn its characteristic orange colour. Carotenoids benefit the skin by acting as antioxidants and some also have the ability to be converted into retinol on the skin, which belongs to a vitamin A-based class of drugs called retinoids. Retinoids are by far the most used and most studied anti-ageing compounds and have a solid track record to back up their effectiveness. Components in sea buckthorn oil are able to reach varying levels of the epidermis due to the presence of fatty acids with properties that are able to enhance transdermal delivery. Sea buckthorn oil contains several, powerful antioxidant compounds that are able to fight off free radicals. It is also able to regulate the activity of enzymes within the skin that fight off free radicals and help the skin hold on to moisture. In addition, it is also able to relieve skin dryness and even potentially reverse skin damage caused by an exposure to UV radiation due to its high concentration of carotenoids and tocopherols. These properties make sea buckthorn oil exceptionally beneficial as an ingredient for the prevention of skin ageing and in the treatment of dry skin conditions such as psoriasis and eczema, or dermatitis. Our sea buckthorn oil is a blend of both the fruit and the seed oil that work synergistically to amplify benefits to the skin. The berries are a rich source of vitamins C, A, in the form of alpha- and beta-carotene and a mixture of other carotenoids, E and P, alongside the AHAs: malic acid and citric acid. Summarising the Benefits of Sea Buckthorn Oil In comparison to other plant oils, sea buckthorn oil has a unique makeup of carotenoids, fatty acids, and complex lipids. It contains omega-7, or palmitoleic acid, which is a rare find in plant oils but is a component of skin lipids that stimulates the production of collagen, wound healing and skin regeneration, properties that make the oil especially beneficial for the treatment of scars. These benefits of sea buckthorn oil have also been connected to its omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acid content, alongside its content of other nutrients, the likes of carotenoids and tocopherols, that stimulate the production of dermal fibroblasts and collagen, along with the expression of enzymes, known as metalloproteinases, that induce the repair of tissue, and angiogenesis, i.e., the production of new blood vessels. The fatty acids in sea buckthorn oil also help improve the skin’s hydration levels by helping reduce transepidermal water loss through the skin. They are able to do this in two ways: first, by forming an occlusive layer on top of the skin and second, by helping to stimulate the production of skin barrier lipids and proteins. A good addition to any skin care routine, the antioxidant and nutritional profile of sea buckthorn oil make it particularly beneficial for ageing skin, acne, acne scars and dry skin conditions such as eczema, or dermatitis. Extracting Sea Buckthorn Oil Sea buckthorn has been used historically in traditional medicine for centuries. However, harvesting it is not easy. The berries tend to be found in mountainous areas and are densely surrounded with thorns. To pick the berries off the shrub therefore, it is necessary to remove the entire branch. This means that sea buckthorn berries can only be harvested once every two years, and on top of it, don’t yield a lot of oil either, which makes the oil an expensive one to extract. Several different oil extraction methods exist. The methods used to extract and process the oil are important determinants of the quality of an oil. Cold-pressing is the preferred method of extraction as it doesn’t use heat or toxic chemicals and is as a result, best able to preserve the beneficial compounds in an oil while at the same time limiting irritating by-products. Our sea buckthorn oil is a blend of both the fruit and the seed oil. It is cold pressed from hand picked, high quality berries and is stored in inert, UV-protective packaging from the time that it is extracted, to the time that it reaches the end customer. This is essential as UV radiation in sunlight is known to induce oxidation and rancidity in oils. Our sea buckthorn oil is also completely unrefined. This means that it is not mixed with other oils of chemicals that result in a deterioration in the quality and purity of the end product so you receive oil of the highest purity and potency to incorporate into your skin care regimen. Incorporating Sea Buckthorn Oil Into Your Skin Care Routine Incorporating our sea buckthorn oil into your skin care routine is not complicated. It’s one of my favourite oils to use on all skin types just because of the sheer strength of the nutritional punch that it packs. Sea buckthorn oil has something to offer for everyone but, as previously mentioned, is particularly beneficial for ageing skin, and skin prone to acne and acne scars, dryness and eczema, or dermatitis. However, if you’re prone to fungal acne, it’s not the best option for you, and you’d be better off using our fungal acne-safe MCT Oil instead. Sea buckthorn oil can be used alone, or mixed into another moisturiser or oil. It is best used at night because of the strong yellow colour that it has because of its high carotenoid content.

Salicylic acid isn't the gold standard in acne treatments without reason. In the images below you can see the results some of our clients experienced using salicylic acid for their acne. However, salicylic acid does more than just treat pimples. In this post I'm going to tell you all you need to know about what salicylic acid is, how to use it and what to expect when you start using it. I'll cover the following topics: What is salicylic acid and how does it work? How is salicylic acid different from AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid? Salicylic acid, acne and fungal acne What else is salicylic acid good for? How to use salicylic acid Salicylic acid and purging Our salicylic acid product range What is salicylic acid and how does it work? Salicylic acid, also called beta hydroxy acid or BHA, is a chemical exfoliant. Chemical exfoliants dissolve the "glue" that holds dull, dead skin cells to the surface of the skin, allowing them to shed off more easily. This results in smoother, healthier looking skin. Salicylic acid also has anti-inflammatory properties. and some studies suggest that it helps protect the skin from sun damage as well. How is salicylic acid different from AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid? AHAs are also chemical exfoliants. While salicylic acid is oil soluble however, AHAs are not. Salicylic acid's oil solubility allows it to penetrate your pores where it dissolves clogs and exfoliate the pore lining. This makes it especially beneficial for acne, which includes blackheads, whiteheads and pimples, and for helping minimise the appearance of enlarged pores. Salicylic acid, acne and fungal acne Acne occurs when your pores get clogged with oil and dead skin cells. Acne that is not inflamed takes the form of blackheads and whiteheads, while inflamed acne, take the form of pimples and cysts. Salicylic acid attacks acne on multiple fronts. It has antibacterial properties and helps kill off the C. acne bacteria implicated in inflamed acne; helps reduce inflammation; and it also helps break up clogs in your pores and keeps new clogs from forming. For those who prefer illustration to text, here's a nice one that shows how a pimple forms and gets infected and how salicylic acid - the blue spheres in the video - then saves the day. Fungal acne, on the other hand, is caused by the malassezia fungus that lives on your skin. This fungus is an opportunistic pathogen. This means that it only tends to cause disease when our immunity is in some way compromised. Among other things, fungal acne can also be triggered by prolonged antibiotic use and tends to get worse in hot and humid climates. Salicylic acid also has potent anti-fungal properties that make it an exceptional choice for individuals with fungal acne as well, but only when used in a fungal acne safe formula. While salicylic acid is an exceptional treatment for both acne and fungal acne, bear in mind that it's not enough to just use the ingredient though. The formulation and ingredient concentration matter and could mean the difference between exceptional results and skin that's irritated and visibly worse than it was before. Proper use matters too - overuse can irritate the skin while using too little might not give you the results you're looking for. Lastly, make sure that your skincare routine is built on a solid foundation. You can learn more about how to build a skincare routine from scratch here. What else is salicylic acid good for? In addition to the treatment of acne and fungal acne, salicylic acid is also used to treat dandruff, psoriasis, calluses, corns, keratosis pilaris and warts. Salicylic acid, and other chemical exfoliants such as lactic acid and glycolic acid, also help pigmentation, and other signs of skin ageing. How to use salicylic acid If you want complete sample routines based on the type and intensity of acne you have, you can find them here for acne vulgaris, i.e. bacterial acne, and here for fungal acne. If you're only looking for general guidelines on how to use salicylic acid, I'm going to cover those now. Over-the-counter salicylic acid products tend to contain the ingredient at a concentration of between 0.5% and 2% and come in a variety of formats from cleansers to serums. When starting out with any chemical exfoliant, including salicylic acid, start slowly and see how your skin responds - this entails starting by using a low to moderate strength product 2 to 3 times per week and slowly building up to as much as your skin is able to tolerate. Everyone is able to tolerate different levels of exfoliation and its important to ensure that you don't overdo it so you don't end up irritating your skin and compromising your skin barrier. Refrain from using multiple exfoliating products in your routine, especially if they contain high concentrations of exfoliants. If at any point your skin feels dry, tight or irritated, take that as a sign of over-exfoliation and cut back. Also avoid combining too many actives together to avoid irritation and always introduce them into your routine one at a time, with the space of a few weeks in between. If you have very little to no acne, salicylic acid in a wash-off format, such as a cleanser, might be all you need to gently exfoliate and prevent acne. If your skin is sensitive, build up your skin barrier before you start using actives by using a gentle cleanser, loading up on moisturiser, and using ingredients like niacinamide, that help support and rebuild a compromised skin barrier. Avoid exfoliants if your skin is prone to eczema and be diligent with sunscreen, since exfoliation can often make your skin more sensitive to the sun, to ensure that you get the most out of the time, money and effort you put into your skin care routine. Salicylic acid is pregnancy safe in concentrations of up to 2% and is safe for daily use on the face if your skin is able to tolerate it. However, it is not the best ingredient to use if you’re looking to exfoliate or treat large areas of your body over a prolonged time period. Bear in mind that persistent use of a good salicylic acid product is necessary to maintain results even if after your skin has cleared. Skincare is like a diet - you only stay thin as long as you stay on the diet. Acne doesn’t have a universal cure and returns if you stop taking care of your skin. In my experience this holds true even for individuals who've been through courses of aggressive medications like isotretinoin. If they don't maintain a good skincare routine, they often see their acne return around a year down the road. Salicylic acid and purging Ingredients like salicylic acid, retinol, and AHAs, that increase skin cell turnover, can sometimes lead to a purge when you first incorporate them into your routine. Purging is normal and subsides on its own, typically within 4 to 6 weeks. It tends to happen in areas where you usually get breakouts. While it can look unpleasant initially, the clear skin that follows after a purge makes it well worth tolerating it. However, a purge can sometimes be avoided, or its intensity reduced, by introducing actives into your routine slowly. Our salicylic acid product range Scroll to the end for a table that summarises the key characteristic of each product.  Product Description/Format Salicylic Acid Concentration Other Beneficial Ingredients Best For Resurfacing Face Wash A non-foaming wash that deep cleans your skin without drying it 0.5% 3.5 to 4% AHAs (glycolic and lactic acids), turmeric and honey Normal to dry skin Salicylic Acid Cleanser A non-foaming wash that deep cleans your skin without drying it 1.0% 2.5% glycolic acid, honey and grapeseed oil Normal to oily skin Salicylic Acid Emulsion A lightweight leave-on treatment 1.5% 2.0% glycolic acid, panthenol, oats and urea Normal to oily skin . Fungal acne safe Salicylic Acid Moisturiser A creamy leave-on formula 2.0% 1.5% glycolic acid, grapeseed oil, sunflower seed oil, panthenol Normal to dry skin If you still have questions or need assistance building your skin care routine, reach out and we’ll give you a complete consultation around what’s best for you - free of charge.