Vitamin C is as famous as it gets and we’re pretty sure it doesn’t need a formal introduction, so today we're going to dive right in to answer some of the most frequently asked questions about this fantastic ingredient and by extension, about our latest launches that feature it: our Vitamin C Serum and our Serum Vitamin C, Niacinamide, Alpha Arbutin. For those who aren’t already aware, our Vitamin C Serum is formulated with 10% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and our Serum Vitamin C, Niacinamide, Alpha Arbutin is formulated with 10% sodium ascorbyl phosphate, 4% niacinamide and 2% alpha arbutin alongside bearberry and mulberry extracts. More to follow about both products in future content across all our social media platforms. What does vitamin C do? Vitamin C is an essential nutrient that has many roles in our body. It is needed by the enzymes that make collagen for them to be able to work. It is also an antioxidant. Antioxidants are molecules that help destroy cell-damaging compounds called free radicals in your body. This is essential since high levels of free radicals can lead to premature skin ageing and have also been linked to many diseases, including cancer. What are the benefits of vitamin C serum for skin? As we age, the levels of vitamin C in our skin naturally decline, making the ingredient a useful addition to any anti-ageing skincare routine. Vitamin C has three main benefits in skincare: As already discussed, vitamin C is an antioxidant. Environmental stressors like pollution and UV rays generate free radicals that damage skin cells. Vitamin C helps to kill these off and thereby, minimise the damage they do. Vitamin C is necessary for the enzymes that produce collagen to be able to work. It thus, also helps increase the synthesis of this important protein leading to skin that is firmer, plumper and more resistant to the signs of ageing. Lastly, vitamin C also helps reduce your skin’s melanin production, where melanin is the pigment that gives skin its colour. This makes vitamin C beneficial for skin brightening, and for fighting hyperpigmentation. On a side note though, pigmentation is a highly complex process and studies have shown that it is best battled with a combination of pigment fighting ingredients as opposed to just one. This is why in addition to our Vitamin C Serum, we’ve also launched our Serum Vitamin C, Niacinamide, Alpha Arbutin, which contains five potent ingredients that work in sync to fight pigmentation. This serum also, obviously, helps brighten the skin and protect against the signs of skin ageing. Who should use vitamin C serum? Vitamin C can be used by anyone and is a fantastic ingredient to introduce into your skincare routine in your 20s since this is when, for most people, the signs of skin ageing first begin to appear. It’s also great for people who want to combat pigmentation and want to experience its skin brightening benefits. How to use vitamin C in your skincare routine Depending on how much vitamin C your skin is able to tolerate and on what else you have going on in your skincare routine, vitamin C can be used in the morning, at night, or both in the morning and at night. Our favourite time to use vitamin C though, is before applying sunscreen during the day since research has shown that the antioxidant properties of vitamin C help boost the UV protection offered by sunscreen. What is sodium ascorbyl phosphate? Vitamin C in its pure form, ascorbic acid, is highly unstable and degrades quickly when exposed to air, light or heat and is notoriously difficult to stabilise in skincare products. Because of this, ingredients known as vitamin C derivatives are also popular in skincare formulations. All of these are not created equal but a good vitamin C derivative, such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate, the derivative we’ve used in both our serums that contain vitamin C, is more stable than pure ascorbic acid and offers the same benefits even if it is somewhat less potent. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is also less irritating than ascorbic acid since it doesn’t need to be formulated at very low pH. This means that it is better tolerated by more sensitive skin types. Some research has also shown that it has some anti-acne benefits. Can vitamin C and niacinamide be used together? A lot of popular skincare blogs, and unfortunately, even some dermatologists will tell you that these two star ingredients in skincare can’t be used together. This is a myth however, and it is perfectly safe to combine the two. This myth stems from the fact that when niacinamide is combined with low-pH ascorbic acid, it converts to nicotinic acid, which causes the skin to flush, but still does give the skincare benefits associated with niacinamide. While this flushing of the skin isn’t particularly desirable, it isn’t harmful. In our Serum Vitamin C, Niacinamide, Alpha Arbutin however, we’ve used SAP which doesn’t need a very low pH to be stable, so this concern is avoided entirely. Are there any ingredients I should avoid with vitamin C serum and can I use topical vitamin C if I’m pregnant? You should avoid using benzoyl peroxide and products containing copper with vitamin C as these destroy the ingredient and make it useless. And yes, vitamin C is pregnancy safe! That’s it for now guys! We hope you found this useful. If you have more questions about vitamin C for skin, drop them in the comments below or WhatsApp us and we’ll get back to you. I've linked two of our products that contain vitamin C below for you to explore. Until next time! Hydrating Daily Gentle Shop Now Salicylic Acid Cleanser Shop Now Moisturiser Cleanser Shop Now

There is a concept in cosmeceuticals called the Kligman Standard, developed by dermatology legend, Dr. Albert M. Kligman, the man who pioneered the use of tretinoin for acne and anti-ageing, among other things. Dr. Kligman is also called the father of cosmeceuticals, and is credited with coining the term photogaeing, to describe skin damage that results from years of exposure to UV radiation. ​Cosmeceuticals encompass products that fall somewhere in between pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. While the term doesn’t have a strict legal definition, the cosmetic industry uses it to describe products with active ingredients that have the potential to affect change in the skin that is more than superficial. According to the Kligman Standard, a cosmeceutical ingredient must be evaluated based on the following three questions: ​​Can it penetrate past the skin’s outermost layer, the stratum corneum, in a concentration high enough that allows for it to deliver its therapeutic benefits? Does it have a known biochemical mechanism of action? Do published, peer-reviewed, double-blind, placebo-controlled, statistically significant, clinical trials exist to support claims of its effectiveness? I’m not one for discrediting safe, potentially beneficial ingredients based on an incomplete understanding of their mechanism of action or on scant research - finding all the answers takes time and resources. However, ingredients that uphold the Kligman Standard have their own place and niacinamide is one of the few that does. Much is known about how niacinamide works and many studies have backed up its effectiveness over the years. It is also a small molecule with a molecular weight of 122.12 g/mol that we know is readily absorbed by the skin when topically applied. What is niacinamide? Niacinamide is a physiologically active form of vitamin B3 or niacin, that has been used in dermatology for over four decades for many conditions including acne and rosacea, and more recently, photoaging. Since it is water-soluble, it is not stored in the body and needs to be replenished daily. It plays a central role in cellular respiration, energy production, DNA repair and our cellular response to injury, including inflammation. It is safe for use during pregnancy. Some history: the pellagra epidemic Pellagra, which has also often been called the disease of the four D’s, dermatitis, diarrhoea, dementia and death, was first identified among Spanish peasants in 1735. A repulsive disease, it was then given the name of mal de la rosa and while reports of what could have been pellagra in the U.S. go as far back as the 1820s, the first official case was not identified until 1907. Pellagra was especially rampant in the poor Southern states and between 1907 and 1940, around three 3 million Americans contracted the disease and 100,000 of them died. Pellagra was initially believed to be infectious. Dr. Joseph Golderber, a brilliant clinical epidemiologist, proved however, that pellagra was in fact a dietary disease. Dr. Goldberger passed away before he was able to pin pellagra down to a deficiency in vitamin B3 and this association was discovered around a decade after his death by Conrad Elevjhem. Tryptophan, an amino acid precursor to niacin, has since been added to commercial foods to fortify them and today pellagra is almost unheard of. This brief history, and the symptoms of patients deficient in B3, demonstrate the variety of processes that the human body needs niacin for. The prevalence of dermatitis in those deficient also demonstrates the importance of niacinamide for skin health. Niacinamide benefits for skin and its mechanism of action Niacinamide has recently seen its popularity surge in skin care with products like The Ordinary’s Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% Serum dominating the industry. Its fan base is testimony to its effectiveness. Niacinamide’s involvement in sundry cellular mechanisms allows it to affect positive change in the skin on many fronts. Here’s everything that we know niacinamide can do for your skin. “Studies have shown that niacinamide has the potential to act as an antioxidant, can improve epidermal barrier function, decrease skin hyperpigmentation, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, decrease redness/blotchiness, decrease skin yellowness (sallowness), and improve skin elasticity. The mechanisms by which niacinamide provides this array of skin benefits is not completely understood, but the role of niacinamide as a precursor to the NADP family of coenzymes may play a significant role in all of these improvements.” Source: How Much Do We Really Know About Our Favourite Cosmeceutical Ingredients? Niacinamide and atopic dermatitis Given nicotinic acid’s relationship with pellagra, it makes sense to start here. Atopic dermatitis involves three things: a decrease in ceramide production in the skin, an increase in transepidermal water loss and a damaged skin barrier. A B3 deficiency can cause dermatitis and studies have shown that moisturisers formulated with niacinamide can be effective in its treatment. ​Dermatitis isn’t the name given to a single condition. The term refers to a group of conditions characterised by itching, inflammation and changes in the layer of the skin called the epidermis. Atopic dermatitis is a common form of dermatitis that occurs in families with a history of asthma and hay fever. It occurs in bouts, but tends to be chronic and is characterised by an itchy, red rash. ​Transepidermal water loss refers to the loss of water via evaporation, through the skin. ​The primary function of the skin barrier is to keep moisture in and irritants out. When impaired however, it is unable to properly perform this function causing an immune response and inflammation. In an experiment that incubated cells with niacinamide, niacinamide was shown to increase free fatty acids and cholesterol in the skin, both of which are essential components of the skin barrier and have reduced levels in ageing and atopic dermatitis-affected skin. Niacinamide also down-regulates aquaporin 3, a water channel in the skin that is up-regulated in dermatitis-affected skin resulting in increased transepidermal water loss. Researchers speculate that niacinamide also improves skin barrier function by stimulating keratinocyte differentiation, something that has been observed both in cell cultures, and in human subjects. This results in a thicker stratum corneum that is better able to hold on to water. Other studies have also demonstrated the effectiveness of niacinamide for atopic dermatitis. While in its oral form, it was only minimally effective, topical niacinamide resulted in significant improvements probably because targeted therapy was delivered to the affected area. A study that investigated the impact of the application of 2% niacinamide in 12 male patients with dry skin, twice a week for 4 weeks, showed the niacinamide was able to reduce water lost through the skin by 27% and increase free fatty acids and ceramides in the stratum corneum, the topmost layer of the skin, by 67% and 34%, respectively. Niacinamide and skin pigmentation Niacinamide can also be effective against pigmentation, and can even help in skin lightening - for those interested. Most explanations of pigmentation sound like this: skin contains pigment-producing cells called melanocytes. Light and dark skin have about the same number of melanocytes, but in darker skin these produce more pigment and are more highly branched. Melanin protects us from the sun’s harmful UV rays, which is also why our skin tans. When UV hits melanocytes, pigment production is up-regulated as the skin tries to defend itself. Hyperpigmentation occurs when excessive sun exposure over time makes this process go awry, leading to uneven pigmentation with patches of lighter and darker skin. While this explanation is correct, it is not complete - pigment production in the skin is a complex, multi-stage process. This is important to know since different pigmentation inhibitors work at different points in this process resulting in variable efficacy among compounds. This is also why anti-pigmentation ingredients tend to work better when combined as opposed to when they are used alone. However, niacinamide has been shown to be beneficial for pigmentation and works by inhibiting the transfer of melanosomes - small sacs that contain the melanin pigment produced by our melanocytes - from melanocytes to keratinocytes, the primary cell type in our epidermis. In a study on 120 subjects with facial tanning and 18 subjects with hyperpigmentation, niacinamide resulted in a 35-68% inhibition of melanosome transfer in skin culture and was able to significantly decrease hyperpigmentation and increase skin lightness. Another double-blind, randomised control trial with 202 subjects, also yielded similar results. Niacinamide and rosacea Characterised by redness, pimples, and broken blood vessels, rosacea is a common chronic skin condition that usually only affects the face and eyes. It tends to begin between the ages of 30 and 60 and is more common in fair-skinned individuals and menopausal women. People with rosacea tend to have more sensitive skin than those who don’t and flare-ups can be triggered by a variety of things from sunlight to spicy food, and even strong emotions. Triggered skin is red, blotchy, coarse and swollen. It also has a compromised skin barrier which makes it susceptible to further irritation, resulting in a vicious cycle. Niacinamide helps those with rosacea in ways similar to how it helps those with dermatitis: by increasing free fatty acids and cholesterol in the stratum corneum and reducing transepidermal water loss, resulting in more resilient skin that is less susceptible to irritation in the face of environmental triggers. Niacinamide also helps modulate the overactive immune response typically associated with rosacea. However, concentration matters and high concentrations, like the typical 10%, are likely to irritate the condition further. Those with rosacea should look for gentle products containing less than 5% niacinamide. Studies have shown that niacinamide is effective for those with rosacea even at concentrations as low as 2%. That said however, everyone is different, and it is still always wise to patch test a product before use, especially if your skin is sensitive or problematic. Niacinamide and skin ageing Energy is necessary for a cell to be able to perform all of its functions and niacinamide is essential for cellular respiration, the process by which cells convert glucose into energy. Here, niacinamide is involved in the synthesis of coenzymes nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADP), which get depleted with age; using niacinamide can help correct their shortfall. NAD and NADP are also coenzymes in more than 40 other cellular biochemical reactions, and have antioxidant properties, giving niacinamide the power to have multiple skin benefits and act as a promising ingredient in the fight against skin ageing. As we age, other changes also take place in our skin. Less collagen is produced by the fibroblasts in our dermis and ceramide levels in our stratum corneum also get depleted - this is one of the reasons why skin becomes drier with age. Niacinamide can help stimulate the production of both collagen, and ceramides. It also increases the production of the fibrous proteins, keratin, filaggrin and involucrin, within the epidermis helping to restore firmness and suppleness to the skin. ​Keratin affects the structure of cells in the epidermis alongside epidermal water-binding capacity. Filaggrin is an antecedent of natural moisturising factor (NMF), i.e. the suite of substances in the skin that help it hold on to water. Involucrin is essential for the formation of cell envelopes that protect the cells in the stratum corneum. Niacinamide also helps prevent the yellowness that often accompanies skin as it ages. This happens because glycated yellowish-brown proteins begin to accumulate in the skin as we age. Researchers speculate that since NADP and NADPH are antioxidants that can be up-regulated by the application of niacinamide, niacinamide can thus inhibit the oxidation reaction that results in the formation of glycated proteins. ​Glycation is an oxidation reaction in which a sugar molecule attaches itself to a protein. This reaction is also called the Maillard reaction. Several studies have investigated the impact of topical niacinamide on skin ageing. A double-blind, randomised control trial in which 30 Japanese women were asked to apply a formulation with 5% niacinamide for 8 weeks showed that niacinamide resulted in a significant decline in wrinkles and skin roughness. In another study 40 females aged 35-60 applied 5% niacinamide for 12 weeks also saw significant improvement in hyperpigmentation and skin texture. Niacinamide, enlarged pores and acne Niacinamide is also often sold as an ingredient for minimising enlarged pores. However, I wasn’t really able to find much, if anything, in the way of scientific studies that support this claim. Most evidence is anecdotal. A proposed mechanism of action however, does potentially exist. There is evidence that niacinamide helps reduce sebum production and, as I already mentioned, it also helps increase the production of ​​collagen, keratin, filaggrin, and involucrin in the skin. Since both high sebum production and the sagging of skin with age can result in enlarged pores, niacinamide can help indirectly by fighting against both of these things. It is however, still important to note that pore size is genetically determined and there isn’t much you can do to change it. Niacinamide’s sebostatic, anti-inflammatory and anti-pigmentation effects might potentially also be of use for people who suffer from acne, PIE and PIHP and there is some, albeit limited, evidence to support this. However, when it comes to acne, niacinamide is no substitute for first line acne treatments like salicylic acid, which is also my personal favourite. It might, however, offer additional benefit in a regimen that also contains salicylic acid. Crème B3-B5-E and why we haven’t formulated with 10% niacinamide We wanted to bring you the benefits of niacinamide in a format that’s easy to use and incorporate into your skincare routine, and is suitable for all skin types, including those with acne, fungal acne and sensitive skin. To this end, we’ve created Crème B3-B5-E, a lightweight moisturiser that combines 4% niacinamide with panthenol or provitamin B5 and vitamin E to provide the skin with hydration, healing and antioxidant support. We’ve formulated with 4% niacinamide since multiple studies have shown that niacinamide is effective above concentrations of 2% but a lot of consumers report experiencing irritation at the high concentrations typically available in the market. This concentration results in a product that is effective, but also better tolerated by a wider variety of people. How can you incorporate niacinamide into your skin care routine? Niacinamide can be used everyday, morning and night. Here are some easy skincare routine recommendations that leverage the ingredient for various different skin concerns. If you still have questions after this, as always, feel free to message us on our WhatsApp number: +92-302-222-8349. :) Acne - Moderate Morning: Hydrating Gentle Daily Cleanser, Crème B3-B5-E, The Ultimate Sunscreen Night: Salicylic Acid Cleanser, Crème B3-B5-E Hydrating Daily Gentle Shop Now Salicylic Acid Cleanser Shop Now Moisturiser Cleanser Shop Now

How Does Sunlight Affect Your Skin? Quantum physics defies the imagination. According to the concept of wave-particle duality, every quantum entity has the properties of both particles and waves. In 1905, Einstein showed that light, which had previously been thought of as just an electromagnetic wave, also exhibits particulate behaviour. Gilbert Lewis called these light particles photons in a 1926 letter to the journal Nature, and the name stuck. Though particles, photons can also be described in terms of characteristics like a wavelength, that are typically used to describe waves and as in the case of waves, the wavelength of photons is also inversely proportional to their energy: the shorter the wavelength the higher the energy and vice versa. Sunlight consists of photons with wavelengths that span the UV, visible light, and infrared segments of the electromagnetic spectrum. Image showing the electromagnetic spectrum. Source: https://gamma-sci.com/2021/07/02/electromagnetic-spectrum-101-radio-microwave-and-infrared/ Visible light is largely un-harmful to us and its wavelengths span the 380 - 750nm range. UV radiation however, has shorter wavelengths and more energetic photons that can cause irreversible damage to skin cells. Of greatest importance to us are UVA and UVB rays - UVC rays are blocked from reaching the atmosphere by the ozone layer - that have wavelengths in the 320-400 nm and 280-320 nm ranges, respectively. When UV photons hit our skin, they are absorbed by various molecules within it. Absorbing the energy of a photon leaves a molecule in an excited, unstable state and to regain stability, the molecule must release the energy that it has absorbed. Physics tells us that energy cannot be created or destroyed, but can be converted from one form to another. Excited molecules often release their energy as heat, but can also release it as chemical energy, i.e. they can take part in chemical reactions in the skin that have biological consequences. As an example - a very important one in fact - let’s see how UV radiation affects DNA. DNA is a large molecule that quickly releases the energy absorbed by a UV photon as heat. Less than 0.1% of the time however, an excited DNA molecule causes chemical reactions that result in damage. Many chemical reactions can occur, but one of the most common ones is the fusion of two base pairs. This can lead to mistakes when DNA is copied during cell division and these mistakes can change how DNA encodes proteins resulting in the formation of abnormal proteins. Mutations that occur in areas that code DNA repair enzymes or tumour suppressing proteins can subsequently lead to cancer. The link between UV radiation and skin cancer is well researched and the International Agency for Research on Cancer has declared UV radiation to be a Type I Carcinogen. 0.1% might not seem like a lot but let’s look at it from a different perspective. More than 4 x 1016 photons hit our pupil, assuming it has a diameter of only 2mm, every second. 8% of these photons are UV photons and 0.1% of these 8% have the potential to cause damage. This means that every second, you have 3.2 x 1012 photons hitting a mere 2mm radius that have the potential to do some serious damage. While this number may vary and may even be an overestimate, since the intensity of sunlight tends to vary and not all UV photons are absorbed by our DNA, these numbers still help to illustrate that 0.1% of a lot is still a lot. UV radiation also affects the skin in other ways. It causes tanning as UVA rays induce the production of higher levels of melanin pigment in the skin as the skin tries to protect itself. Through complex pathways, UV radiation also generates free radicals, including reactive oxygen species in our skin. While our skin does have a natural antioxidant network to help neutralise these, excessive sun exposure overloads the skin’s defences so free radicals are able to cause cellular damage. They also damage DNA and collagen and can interrupt cell signalling pathways and gene expression. Several pathways can lead to the generation of free radicals. One example involves the pigment melanin, which is there to protect us from UV radiation. While melanin normally releases absorbed energy as heat, occasionally a higher energy melanin molecule can bump into, and excite, a more sensitive molecule as it dissipates its energy. When this happens, the excited molecule can excite an oxygen atom turning stable oxygen into a free radical or reactive oxygen species that can damage other cellular structures including DNA. What makes reactive oxygen species so dangerous is their long lifespan as free radicals and their capacity to set off a chain of skin damaging events. UVA rays penetrate deeper into the skin than UVB and cause the destruction of collagen. As collagen degrades, our skin loses elasticity and smoothness, leading to wrinkles. UVA rays are widely thought of as the ageing ray, while UVB rays are thought of as the burning ray. The end result of all these reactions is damage that accumulates over the years from repeated exposure - and this happens even if your skin is dark, albeit to a relatively lesser degree. However, that doesn’t mean that people of colour can breathe easy since regardless of the amount of melanin we have in our skin, excessive sun exposure will still eventually lead to skin ageing and skin cancer. Enter: Sunscreen Given all of the ways that UV can significantly damage your skin, protecting yourself from the sun is essential and for when we can’t completely stay out of the sun, we have sunscreen. Sunscreens contain UV filters, which are molecules designed to help reduce that amount of UV that reaches the skin’s surface. A film of UV filter forms a protective barrier that absorbs (or in very small amounts in the case of mineral sunscreens, reflects) UV before it can reach the skin and wreak havoc. There are two main types of sunscreens which you might know as chemical sunscreens (sunscreens with carbon-based filters like octyl methoxycinnamate, avobenzone and octyl salicylate) and physical sunscreens (that contain zinc oxide and titanium dioxide). The technically more correct names for these however, are organic and inorganic sunscreens respectively, since the former are carbon-based, while the latter are not. Sunscreen molecules work similarly to melanin: by absorbing the energy of a photon and converting it to heat, which is a more harmless form of energy. Similar to how electrons associated with molecules in your skin can absorb UV photons, sunscreen molecules can too. This excites the sunscreen molecule and in order to re-stabilise, it too must release the absorbed energy one way or another in a process called relaxation. In order to become stable again, electrons release energy in one of three forms, or a combination of them: Heat. A molecule that has absorbed a photon has more energy and begins to vibrate faster and since heat is just the energy with which molecules vibrate, this results in the release of heat (or in other words, an increase in temperature) . Lower energy forms of visible light, infrared radiation or even lower energy UV along with heat. Chemical energy, i.e., the breaking of chemical bonds. Sometimes this is reversible so sunscreen molecules can keep doing their job. Other times however, it is not and the sunscreen loses efficacy overtime. So long as no chemical bonds are broken, thus changing the nature of the compound in question, once an electron is back in its lower energy form, it's ready to absorb more UV photons in the same spectrum and repeat the process of absorbing and emitting, again and again. This is a similar process to why things heat up in the sun - electrons absorb photons (that may or may not be from the UV spectrum), get excited and then release the energy as heat. Interestingly, fluorescence works similarly - the only difference is that fluorescent substances tend to release absorbed energy as light instead of heat. All electrons can’t absorb all wavelengths and their absorption and emission spectrums depend on the structure of the chemical they’re in. Sunscreens utilise molecules that absorb photons in the UV spectrum and different sunscreen molecules absorb different parts of the spectrum to different extents. This is why all sunscreens are not broad spectrum and most good sunscreens utilise a combination of filters instead of just one to give you high protection over a broad range of wavelengths. I hope you found this informative! If you have topics that you’d like for us to cover in future blogs, drop them in the comments or message us on WhatsApp and we’ll try our best to cover them. Don't forget to check out our Ultimate Sunscreen, formulated with photo-stable UV filters that give you long-lasting, broad spectrum protection. Until next time! Hydrating Daily Gentle Shop Now Salicylic Acid Cleanser Shop Now Moisturiser Cleanser Shop Now

What is pigmentation (also called hyperpigmentation)? Pigmentation, also known as hyperpigmentation, is a common skin condition where some areas of skin are darker than others and typically happens on areas of the body that are frequently exposed to the sun. It happens due to the uneven production of melanin by melanocytes in the skin. ​Melanin is the pigment that gives skin (and also our hair and eyes) its colour and melanocytes are the cells in your skin that produce it. Excessive melanin in some areas and less in others results in patches that look brown, black, grey or pink, depending on your race and ethnicity and people with darker skin tend to be more prone to pigmentation than those with lighter skin. Pigmentation is also at the heart of skin conditions like melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Pigmentation isn’t painful or physically uncomfortable, but tends to make people conscious of their appearance, so in this series of blog posts, I’m going to cover everything that you need to know about pigmentation and what you can do to fix it. Let’s dive right in. What are the different types of hyperpigmentation? When it comes to pigmentation, it’s important to differentiate between diffuse hyperpigmentation and localised hyperpigmentation. ​Diffuse hyperpigmentation is pigmentation that tends to be widespread on different areas of the body, and localised hyperpigmentation is pigmentation that’s limited to one area of the body, as in the case of acne marks and melasma. This is because diffuse hyperpigmentation tends to be associated with an underlying cause and only improves when the underlying cause is addressed. Its underlying causes include malignancy (i.e. cancer), autoimmune conditions, and the side effects of certain medications. Given the seriousness of these causes, I think it goes without saying that if you have diffuse hyperpigmentation you need to visit your doctor and look into what could be causing it. In this blog, I’m going to focus on localised hyperpigmentation, its causes, and what you can do to address it. Here are the major causes of localised hyperpigmentation: Age spots (also known as sun spots) Age spots are small, darkened patches of skin that are caused by accumulated skin damage from sun exposure. Like all pigmentation, they also have to do with an uneven increase in the production of melanin and are most common in people over 40. They appear mainly on body parts that are frequently sun exposed such as the face, neck, décolletage, hands and arms. While usually harmless, age spots can sometimes become malignant (i.e. cancerous). If an age spot seems to change in shape, size or colour, becomes itchy, or starts to bleed, don’t wait, consult a dermatologist ASAP. ​The prevalence of skin cancer in Pakistan According to the Journal of the Pakistan Medical Association, over 800,000 new cases of skin cancer are diagnosed around the world every year and account for around 2100 deaths. Studies done in Pakistan show that skin cancer is one of the top three cancers in Northern Pakistan, which comprises North Punjab, North Balochistan, NWFP and FATA. In NWFP, skin cancer is the most common cancer in men, where it accounts for 8.9% of all cancers, and is the second most common cancer in women, while in North Pakistan overall, skin cancer is the fourth leading cause of cancer in men (6.7% of all cancers) and the second leading cause of cancer in women (5.6% of all cancers). However, the incidence of skin cancer is likely higher than what has been estimated in these studies since it is often misdiagnosed or under-diagnosed. As we travel towards the south of Pakistan, the incidence of skin cancer declines. There are likely three reasons for this: The skin colour of people gets darker the further south we go. Since melanin is our skin’s primary defence against harmful UV rays from the sun, more melanin means higher built-in sun protection. People in the north live at higher altitudes and have higher UV exposure since at higher altitudes, less atmosphere is available to absorb UV radiation. People in the North are mostly outdoor workers and so, have higher overall sun exposure. Despite the lower incidence of skin cancer in darker skin types, dark skinned individuals still need to exercise caution since when they do get it, it tends to be a lot more deadly.   Melasma (also called chloasma) Melasma is a form of pigmentation where larger patches of pigment develop mainly on the face. It can affect both men and women, but is more common in women and is thought to be triggered by hormonal changes since it occurs in 10-15% of pregnant women (and is also sometimes called the mask of pregnancy), and in 10-25% of those taking oral contraceptives. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIHP) This happens after the skin has been subjected to injury or trauma in some form that leaves discolouration behind when it heals since melanocytes are known to also be stimulated by inflammation. Examples of PIHP include the marks left behind after acne, and in some cases, even by cosmetic procedures like dermabrasion, laser and chemical peels. What causes pigmentation? Pigmentation occurs when melanocytes begin to produce more melanin. Several factors can trigger an increase in melanin production but the single biggest factor is sun exposure. Since the primary role of melanin is to protect you from the sun, sun exposure stimulates melanin production leading, most immediately, to a tan. Excessive sun exposure over time makes the process go awry, leading to uneven pigmentation which is what we most commonly think about in association with the words pigmentation or hyperpigmentation. Once pigmentation has developed, sun exposure can also make it worse than it already is. Other factors that can lead to pigmentation include genetics, as in the case of freckles, hormones, as in the case of melasma, and inflammation as in the case of the marks left behind after inflammatory skin conditions like acne, dermatitis, psoriasis and other injuries to the skin. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation occurs because inflammation can lead to up-regulation of melanin production in the skin. Injury to the skin can counterintuitively, also be caused by aggressive or irritating skin products and treatments. These include abrasive scrubs, chemical exfoliants when incorrectly used, microneedling and even lasers when administered improperly without first patch testing the skin. Pigmentation also becomes more common with age because of the way our skin changes over the years: the number of melanocytes decreases while the ones that remain become bigger in size and their distribution becomes more focussed resulting in age spots. As previously mentioned, pigmentation, especially in the form of melasma, can also be affected by hormones. Melasma affects mainly women and is thought to occur when the hormones oestrogen and progesterone stimulate the overproduction of melanin when the skin is exposed to the sun. Melasma can also be caused by hormone-based medicines like oral contraceptives. Lastly, in some cases, hyperpigmentation can be a symptom of autoimmune and gastrointestinal disease, metabolic disorders and vitamin deficiencies and can also be triggered by non-hormonal oral medications including antibiotics and drugs used in chemotherapy, among others. How can I prevent and treat hyperpigmentation? Over the course of time, many options have become available to treat pigmentation. I’m going to cover the topical skincare ingredients and in-office procedures that are effective in the treatment of pigmentation in detail, in separate posts. What follows here, is an overview of how you can structure your everyday skincare routine to combat pigmentation if you have it. If you haven’t already read our blog on how to build a skincare routine from scratch, I would highly recommend you do that as well. When it comes to pigmentation, before anything else, it’s essential to identify what’s causing it and also treat the cause. For example, if your pigmentation is being caused in the aftermath of acne and eczema, it’s essential that you first manage those conditions to prevent new pigmented patches from being created. In addition to that, while sun protection is essential for everyone, it’s especially important if you’re prone to pigmentation since the sun is the single biggest cause of pigmentation and will invariably exacerbate it if you already have it. Look for a sunscreen that is broad spectrum and protects against both UVA and UVB radiation, and reapply it after sweating, swimming or other activities that could lead to it being washed off. If the sunscreen filters contained in the sunscreen aren’t photo-stable, also pay attention to reapplication every 2-3 hours throughout the day, while the sun is still out. Lastly make sure you take regular photographs to monitor improvement since improvements do take some time and it’s often easy to assume that something isn’t working when in fact, it is. Here’s a skincare routine you could try if you’re prone to pigmentation. Morning Wash your face with our Hydrating Gentle Daily Cleanser. Apply a few drops of our Serum Vitamin C, Niacinamide, Alpha Arbutin (launching soon). Moisturise with our Carbamide Intensive Hydration Cream to lock moisture in. Follow up with The Ultimate Sunscreen SPF 50 Ultra. Hydrating Daily Gentle Shop Now Salicylic Acid Cleanser Shop Now Moisturiser Cleanser Shop Now

What is retinol and how does it work? Retinol is a type of retinoid, i.e., a vitamin A derivative. Retinoids are the most used and studied anti-ageing compounds. Tretinoin, initially sold as Retin-A, was the first retinoid to be used as an acne treatment in the ‘70s; researchers however discovered that it also has other benefits: it fades precancerous lesions called actinic keratoses, evens out pigmentation and speeds up the rate at which the skin renews itself. In addition to retinol, retinoids include retinyl palmitate (this is the variant we’ve used in our Retin-oil Serum), retinaldehyde, adapalene, tretinoin and tazarotene, among others, where adapalene and tazarotene are synthetic retinoids while the rest, are naturally found in our bodies. Retinoic acid, or tretinoin, is the only natural retinoid that our skin can process. It binds to receptors in skin cells where it influences cellular processes like growth, differentiation, immune modulation and others. All natural retinoids must first be converted to retinoic acid before our skin can use them and their strength depends on the number of steps required for this conversion - something probably best illustrated by a diagram. Synthetic retinoids also have variable strengths but don’t need to be converted to retinoic acid to work. A side note on retinyl palmitate Since retinyl palmitate is the retinoid we’ve used in our serums, here are some more things we think you might like to know about it. Retinyl palmitate is a combination of retinol and the fatty acid palmitic acid. It is found naturally in our skin and is the most abundant form of vitamin A storage in animals. ​​It’s also an antioxidant that prevents visible signs of skin ageing and protects skin from the harmful effects of pollution and UV. How retinol slows down ageing Your skin is constantly shedding old, dead cells and making new ones to replace them, so much so, that while you’re young, your skin completely renews itself every 28 days on average. As you age, this process slows down and old dead cells begin to accumulate making your skin look dull, dry and wrinkled. Retinoids are known to be the gold standard in anti-ageing ingredients. They stimulate the metabolism of skin cells so dead skin sheds off and is replaced by new skin more quickly. They also reduce the amount of melanin, or pigment, that your skin produces. These two effects combined cause dark spots to fade and make your skin brighter and more even-toned. Because of the effect that retinoids have on skin cell turnover, a lot of people are under the impression that retinoids are exfoliants. This however, is not true. Chemical exfoliants work by breaking the bonds that hold dead skin cells to the surface. Retinoids work by stimulating the production of new skin cells and affecting how they mature - unlike chemical exfoliants, they aren’t able to break the bonds that hold dead cells to the skin’s surface. Retinoids encourage the production of new blood vessels, and of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, and reduce the degradation of these substances by slowing down the activity of enzymes that break them down. They also strengthen your skin barrier, reducing water lost through the skin. This results in skin that is firmer, supple, and more elastic. They are also antioxidants, and deactivate free radicals that damage your skin and cause skin ageing. Lastly, retinoids are also known for their anti-acne effects so if that’s something you’re prone to, you have an additional incentive to incorporate them into your skincare routine. While retinoids don’t result in a dramatic difference overnight - they require at least 12 weeks of consistent use - a well-formulated product visibly reduces sun damage, brown spots, lines, wrinkles, skin laxity and enlarged pores. In short, retinoids are like a reset button for your skin and encourage it to behave like a younger version of itself. So how can you incorporate retinol into your skincare routine if the signs of ageing are your main concern? Here’s a quick routine that you could use as a starting point: Morning: Wash your face with our Hydrating Gentle Daily Cleanser, followed up by our Carbamide Intensive Hydration Cream. Finish up with The Ultimate Sunscreen SPF 50+ Ultra. Night: Wash your face with our Resurfacing Face Wash. Start by using this 3 times a week if your skin is sensitive and slowly build frequency of use. On the nights you don’t use this, use our Hydrating Gentle Daily Cleanser, or even our Butter But Better Cleansing Balm, if balms are more your thing. Follow it up with our Carbamide Intensive Hydration Cream. If you want an extra boost, I highly recommend adding a few drops of our Sea Buckthorn Oil to your moisturiser at night. Finish up with our Retin-oil Serum. Start at 0.2% 3 times per week and if you think your skin is tolerating that well, slowly build up first use frequency, and then strength. When you should start using retinol and how to incorporate retinol into your skincare routine The fibroblasts - special types of cells that make collagen and other important substances - in your skin begin to slow down in your 20s making it a great decade to add a retinoid into your skincare routine. However, since retinoids can cause undesirable side effects when you first start them, start with the gentlest available option and build up slowly. If your skin is sensitive, this option might be all that your skin is able to tolerate. And this is okay. Lower retinoid strengths take longer to show effects but in the long-run, they’re all effective anti-ageing ingredients. Also stick with a gentle option if you’re young since you’ll benefit even from low strengths and doses. In the case of our Retin-oil Serum, which comes in three strength variants - 0.2%, 0.5% and 1.0% - we would recommend starting out with the 0.2% 3 times a week and then building up and only moving on to a higher strength if your skin is easily able to tolerate what you’re currently using. Each time you move to a stronger variant, start by incorporating it into your routine 3 times a week before increasing frequency of use. Don’t let impatience convince you to load up on retinoids, since you’ll only end up burning your face off in the process. Because retinoids result in increased skin cell turnover, you’ll experience a few weeks of flakiness, irritation, and purging (if your skin is prone to acne) when you start. By starting slowly and loading up on moisturiser, you can mitigate these side-effects. They do, however, also usually subside on their own as your skin adjusts to the product. Mild exfoliation can also help with flakiness. What about combining retinoids with other products? While this is something I’ve personally done without adverse effects since I don’t have sensitive skin and am an experienced skincare user, it’s not something I would recommend for most people as it might lead to irritation. This is especially true if your skin is sensitive, or you’re new to skincare. If you would like to use other strong actives like chemical exfoliants, benzoyl peroxide and vitamin C in your routine alongside retinoids, use them on the nights that you don’t use retinoids. Like anything in skincare - or in life - continued results are dependent on consistency of use. If you stop using retinoids, your skin will go back to baseline. Precautions to take when using retinol As previously mentioned, retinoids can cause dryness, peeling and irritation. While these issues can be mitigated by starting slowly, you need to be careful if you have an underlying condition like eczema or rosacea since retinoids can potentially aggravate it. Patch test first, start with the mildest available option and keep your skin moisturised. If you have sensitive skin, you can apply a heavy moisturiser before applying the retinoid to reduce the chance of irritation. Retinoids can also make your skin more sensitive to other products, procedures, and sunlight so as I mentioned previously, avoid mixing them with other strong actives and stop using them for at least a week before things like facials, laser treatments, chemical peels and waxing. In addition, since retinoids are teratogenic and can cause abnormal foetal development, you shouldn’t use them if you’re pregnant, trying to get pregnant, or breastfeeding. Retinoids are also sensitive to heat and light and should be kept in an opaque container, in a cool, dark place, away from direct sunlight and ideally, used only during the night. As with most actives, to reap maximum benefit, use up the product within 3 months of opening the bottle. Can you use retinoids around the eye area? Yes you can! However, since the skin around the eye area is especially delicate and thin, you need to be careful to not use a product that’s too strong. Look for an eye cream especially formulated for the eye area, or you can use our Retin-oil Serum 0.2% since that uses retinyl palmitate, which is a much gentler retinoid. Start slowly and see how much your skin can easily tolerate to avoid risking irritation. Retinoids and acne In addition to their anti-ageing effects, topical retinoids are also known for their effects on acne and acne scars. One of the causes of acne is the improper shedding of dead skin cells. When the bonds between dead skin cells don’t dissolve properly, they clump together making it more likely that they’ll clog your pores. Retinoids regulate skin cell turnover, and prevent this from happening. Retinoids regulate the skin’s immune system and reduce inflammation and are also able to decrease the activity of sebaceous glands - the skin’s oil producing glands - and melanocytes, resulting in clear skin, reduced breakouts and smaller pores. So what’s the best way to incorporate retinoids into your skincare routine if you have acne vulgaris? As always, start slow and build up slowly. I recommend combining them with salicylic acid for maximum benefit, in a routine that might look like this: Morning: Wash your face with our Hydrating Gentle Daily Cleanser, followed up by our Carbamide Intensive Hydration Cream if your skin is normal to dry, and our AccuHydra Hydrating Gel Cream if it’s oily. Finish up with The Ultimate Sunscreen. Night: Wash your face with our Salicylic Acid Cleanser. Follow it up with the same moisturiser you used in the morning. If you want an extra boost, I highly recommend adding a few drops of our Sea Buckthorn Oil to your moisturiser at night. Finish up with our Retin-oil Serum. Start at 0.2% 3 times per week and if you think your skin is tolerating that well, slowly build up use frequency and strength. These are general recommendations but as always, feel free to reach out to us for recommendations more geared towards your skin specific type and concerns. Other benefits of retinol In addition to helping combat skin ageing and acne, retinoids are also beneficial for other skin issues. Here’s a quick summary. Because retinoids stimulate cell turnover, and lead to an increase in the production of substances like collagen and elastin, they also help plump your skin, shrink your pores and smooth out your skin’s texture. They are also highly effective for uneven skin tone, skin dullness, pigmentation and melasma because of their suppressive effect on melanocytes - the skin’s pigment producing factories. As already mentioned, start slowly with retinoids to avoid irritation since irritation can also often trigger pigmentation, especially in people with darker skin tones. According to the American Osteopathic College of Dermatology, retinoids are also effective for keratosis pilaris. Lastly, retinoids thicken the epidermis and act as antioxidants, thus helping to protect the skin against external stressors such as pollution.

Disclaimer: not every doctor is the same, nor does everyone experience the same side effects from any given drug. That said, given the sheer number of horror stories I’ve heard, I do believe that it’s my duty to share the information that follows so you can make an informed decision about what you choose to put in, and on, your body. My legs hurt and I didn’t know why. My muscles felt stiff as if they were turning to bone. I had always been very fit, but I was struggling to climb up the stairs. I also felt fatigued and depressed, ready to burst into tears at the slightest provocation. I dismissed these symptoms initially as tiredness. As they worsened over the course of the following few weeks however, I had an epiphany. Could they be the side effects of the drug I had been taking for the last one month? I’d had severe acne for years and my last visit to the dermatologist had culminated in a prescription for isotretinoin, a.k.a. accutane - the purported miracle cure for acne. I called the dermatologist who had prescribed the drug and told him about my symptoms only for him to deny that the drug could possibly have symptoms at all. I come from a family of doctors myself, and was well aware that isotretinoin is a chemotherapy drug that comes with a sleuth of side effects. Questioning both the competence and integrity of the doctor I had visited, I left the drug, and needless to say, also the doctor, and within a week, my symptoms began to normalise - I wasn’t going to say goodbye to my health trying to fix my skin. When it comes to stories about acne medications though, I’ve heard worse. I’ve had clients who’ve experienced hepatitis, severe dehydration and anal fissures because of accutane. While these may be some of its less common side effects, they still occur in 10-30% of those taking the medicine. And these aren’t the only ones. Among other things, those taking the medication can also experience severe hair loss, decreased night vision, abnormal liver function, low blood counts and increased blood sugar and cholesterol. It also has some more common side effects that are experienced by more than 30% of the people taking it. These include headaches, fever and sweating, pain in the bones, nausea and vomiting, severe dryness of the eyes, mouth and nose, and changes in eyesight. When it comes to acne though, isotretinoin isn’t the only scary drug. Other commonly prescribed drugs like hormones and antibiotics aren’t without their challenges. I’ve attached a video below, where two girls who experienced acne, describe their experience with acne medications. One of them developed intracranial hypertension - pressure build up in the brain - as a result of antibiotics and had to undergo a type of surgery called a lumbar puncture to relieve the pressure. Long term antibiotic use also alters the composition of the gut microbiome which is essential for health. Alterations in the gut microbiome are related to various diseases including cardiovascular disease and cancer, and increase the risk of premature, all-cause mortality. So the question is: If you have acne, do you really need to put your body through all this? Here’s why you don’t: Medications aren’t a permanent cure for acne. In most cases, the acne returns after you stop taking the drug. This is true even if the drug in question is isotretinoin. A lot of people tend to relapse within 6 months to 2 years of completing a course of isotretinoin. Doctor’s typically put them on another course of the medicine and the side effects are always worse the second time around. Since no acne medication is without side effects, taking medicines for acne long-term is simply not sustainable and will destroy your overall health over time. In all the cases I’ve touched upon above, including my own, the acne was later managed simply by having a good skincare routine. A good way to understand the importance of skincare is like this: just like the food you eat on a regular basis has an impact on your overall health, what you put on your skin has an impact on the health of your skin. Ingredients in skincare have an impact on the chemistry of your skin - this includes ingredients in products like cleansers that people usually don’t pay much attention to. While skincare does require consistency and patience (which let’s face it, so do drugs) and often, also some hit and trial, it’s still worth the investment since it has no side effects and is the only sustainable way to great skin long-term. Before I wind this blog up, I’d like to end by answering one more question - and the answer to it, isn’t what you’d most probably expect. Who should you take skincare advice from? The answer is not your dermatologist. As someone who comes from a family of doctors - we also own a hospital - I’m well acquainted with what is and isn’t taught in medical school. While dermatologists are taught the anatomy, physiology and pathology of skin, they are not cosmetic formulators, nor is cosmetic formulation covered in medical school. Dermatologists who do have solid skincare knowledge have it because they’ve done their own research - most however, simply use their medical degree as a reason for why they should be an authority on the subject but that honestly doesn’t mean anything. The skincare that dermatologists recommend typically consist of products that different pharmaceutical companies have pitched to them, not of products whose formulations and ingredients they’ve researched and understand the chemistry of. So who should you take skincare advice from? If you don’t have access to a qualified aesthetician, do your own research. The internet has made all manner of information accessible to everyone. Find industry experts - make sure they’re credible, the internet also has a lot of misinformation and garbage - and follow them on YouTube and Instagram and begin to learn about your skin. Here’s a post on how to build a skincare routine from scratch and another one on acne to get you started. However, if you don’t want to put the requisite effort into reading or research, or perhaps you don’t have the time to, don’t worry, we’ve got you covered. Simply drop us a message on WhatsApp (+92-302-222-8349) and we’ll take care of the rest for you. ♥️

When first invented, sunscreens were designed only to protect against sunburn. Sunscreens today must also protect users from discreet damage (you don’t have to experience a sunburn for UV radiation to damage your skin) that shows up years later as prematurely aged skin in the form of wrinkles and pigmentation, and in some cases, even cancer. UV filters reduce the amount of UV light that reaches the skin and when developing a sunscreen, filters are selected based on what we expect out of the sunscreen in terms of performance and skin feel. UV filters are of two main types: Organic filters. These are carbon-based and include avobenzone, octinoxate and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, among others. Inorganic filters. These aren’t carbon based and include the different forms (coated vs. uncoated, nano vs. micro particle sizes) of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. While the chemical and natural terminology is commonly used to describe these different types of filters, this is incorrect and misleading as even inorganic, or mineral, filters are chemical filters produced by chemical means. It’s also incorrect to describe mineral filters as physical filters. There is a pervasive myth that chemical filters work by absorbing UV and converting it into heat, while physical filters work by scattering or reflecting UV. Mineral filters however, also work mostly by absorbing UV: they absorb around 95% of UV radiation and convert it to heat; only about 5% is scattered, and that too, towards your skin. What’s more? Insoluble, particulate “chemical” filters (e.g. tris-biphenyl triazine and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol) work the same way. Luckily however, a high probability exists that UV scattered forward will encounter another filter particle and get converted to heat before it reaches your skin. Of the ways - absorption, scattering and reflection - that sunscreens can protect your skin from UV, absorption is best since it destroys UV and turns it into something less harmful. So does zinc oxide really protect better than “chemical”, or more accurately, organic UV filters? Well, no. While zinc oxide does offer broad spectrum protection, which means that it protects you from both UVA and UVB light, this doesn’t tell you anything about the strength of its protection and zinc oxide isn’t a particularly strong UV filter. In other words, while zinc oxide can absorb multiple wavelengths of UV light, it can’t absorb a lot of any particular wavelength, which means that while it offers broad spectrum protection, this protection is relatively weak and a lot of zinc oxide is needed to create a high strength sunscreen. As a result, when zinc oxide is used alone, the sunscreen usually tends to have a heavy finish and a white cast that looks particularly terrible on darker skin tones. This makes people less likely to apply the required amount of sunscreen for adequate protection since protection really does depend upon the amount of sunscreen that you apply. Titanium dioxide (the less talked about but stronger mineral UV filter), on the other hand, is a stronger filter than zinc oxide but protects mostly in the UVA II/UVB region. Mineral filters are also harder to stabilise into a sunscreen for uniform protection especially when uncoated - a form that’s usually leveraged by “natural” brands - leading to an ineffective and unstable sunscreen. Formulating a stable sunscreen with mineral filters that also feels good when applied is no monkey business. Nowadays we also have fantastic broad spectrum “chemical” or organic UV filters that have a low probability of irritating the skin and offer exceptional photo-stability and UV protection. They are also not easily absorbed by the skin, making them highly safe to use. Since we also have more variety when it comes to organic UV filters, we have more flexibility when it comes to formulating. Different chemical filters can be combined in different ways to optimise a sunscreen to be efficient and strong over a broad spectrum of wavelengths, all while also being pleasant to apply. So which type of sunscreen is truly better? The answer is that there’s really no short answer. The entire formulation matters from the solvents used, to how the filters have been combined and stabilised. Assuming that you have the option to choose between two good, stable sunscreen formulas, a mineral one and an organic one, which one should you go for? It boils down to personal preference. Ultimately, the best sunscreen is a well formulated one that you’ll actually enjoy applying - generously. Hydrating Daily Gentle Shop Now Salicylic Acid Cleanser Shop Now Moisturiser Cleanser Shop Now

To answer this question, we need to first understand what the sun’s rays are made up of and how these components affect unprotected skin. While skin cancer thankfully, is not of huge concern in this part of the world, the impact of the sun is not limited to the development of skin cancer down the road. What You Need To Know About The Sun’s Rays We’re all familiar with visible light - the light that we can see. The sun however, also emits infrared light, UV rays, X rays and gamma rays. The infographic shows the percentage of each of these in the radiation that the sun emits. While UV light only forms around 8% of the total sunlight that hits the Earth, it causes disproportionately more damage. This is because UV light has shorter wavelengths, which means that it has more energy making each photon that hits your skin, capable of more damage. UV is also more damaging since a number of molecules in the skin are perfectly structured to be able to absorb it - fewer molecules absorb visible light and infrared radiation. UV absorption by molecules leads to chemical reactions in the skin that have negative consequences. While over time, a body of knowledge has also begun to emerge around the impact of visible light (especially blue light since it has shorter wavelengths close to the UV range) and infrared light on our skin, for the purpose of this blog we’re going to limit ourselves to a discussion of UV radiation. The impact of UV is most harmful and has been most researched; it is also what sunscreens, at present, are designed to protect our skin from. UV radiation refers to electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength between 100 and 400 nm and can be further subdivided into UVA, UVB and UVC. UVC radiation, while harmful for humans, is luckily unable to make it past the ozone layer. UVA and UVB are what have been most implicated in causing damage to the skin. UV And Your Skin After skin cancer, the sun is probably most known for its involvement in causing premature skin ageing, also called photoaging. Because UV damage happens happens deep within the skin, it can sometimes take years before this damage comes to the surface and becomes visible. UV damage happens regardless of whether or not you experience a sunburn. You can see the difference between chronological ageing and photoaging by comparing skin on an area of your body that is not exposed to the sun with an area, like your face, that is. Exposure to UV radiation causes stress and injury to the skin. While this happens in multiple ways, one of the most studied mechanisms involves the creation of chemicals called Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS). These damage cells and cause the breakdown of collagen - a fibrous protein that gives skin strength and elasticity. The breakdown of collagen leads to the formation of wrinkles. ROS also result in DNA damage which can cause cell death and even transform healthy cells to into cancerous cells. UV radiation also suppresses the skin’s immune system, which is essential in the skin’s defence against infections and cancers. This, along with the fact that UV results in the oxidation of sebum and an increase in the activity of melanocytes - the skin’s pigment producing factories - means that UV can worsen acne in the form of blackheads, whitehead and pimples, and can also worsen the scars and marks that are left behind once existing acne subsides. It can also lead to, and aggravate hyperpigmentation. The interaction of UV radiation with your skin is a complex topic that I’ve tried to cover as simply as possible and I hope that I’ve succeeded. Given what you’ve just read about the impact of UV rays on your skin, do you think it’s essential to wear sunscreen to protect your skin from the effects of UV rays? I certainly do believe that sun protection is essential and it’s never too late to start practicing good sun protection to prevent future sun damage. Look for a broad-spectrum sunscreen, SPF 30 or higher, that will protect your skin from both UVA, and UVB, rays. Your skin will thank you later.

In an earlier post on how to build a skincare routine from scratch, I discussed four key steps that make up any routine. These include three core steps - cleansing, moisturising and protection with SPF - and one supplementary step - treating specific skin concerns with active ingredients. I also recommended limiting the treatment step to at most three active ingredients where one - which should also be the first one you add - should be a chemical exfoliant. These wonderful ingredients have a lot to offer to almost everyone after they’ve hit puberty. In part 1 of this series I covered what exfoliation is and how it benefits the skin, while in part 2 I defined the two major categories of exfoliation and the ingredients available to us in each category. If you haven’t yet read those, you can read them here and here. In this part I’m going to cover how to incorporate exfoliation into your skincare routine for maximum benefit. I’m going to start with general recommendations and end with detailed guidance for anyone looking to incorporate one of the exfoliants in our range into their skincare routine. I’ll also summarise our product related guidelines for you in a table at the end to make all the information easier for you to process. At present, we have four products that contain chemical exfoliants: our Salicylic Acid Cleanser, Resurfacing Face Wash, Salicylic Acid Pore Cleansing Emulsion and Salicylic Acid Moisturiser. The first two products in this list are exfoliating cleansers and combine two skincare steps in one. And yes, as you’ve probably guessed, we love salicylic acid. Given our strong relationship with acne, we’re huge believers in its skin-clearing powers. As you read what follows, bear in mind that there is no one size fits all formula. While you’re welcome to start with my recommendations as is, it might take some hit and trial to find the perfect exfoliation routine for you. General Recommendations Physical Exfoliation As I’ve previously mentioned, I’m not a huge fan of physical exfoliation. Chemical exfoliation has a lot more to offer and given the huge range of available exfoliating chemicals in different product formats available, it’s usually easy enough to find a product that works well for you, even if your skin is sensitive. However, if you do opt for physical exfoliation, the process of doing it is simple enough. Here’s how. Choose a product that has soft scrubbing particles or scrubbing particles with smooth edges. Depending on the consistency of the product, apply it on wet to damp skin and then massage it in small circles using low pressure. Resist the temptation to scrub too hard and to keep scrubbing for an extended period of time. Also try to not go over the same area more than five times. Start by using a scrub twice a week and slowly work your way up but don’t do more than your skin can tolerate - this threshold varies from person to person. Overdoing it will compromise your skin barrier and result in skin dehydration. It will result also result in skin thinning, redness, sensitivity and irritation - all symptoms that no one wants. Chemical Exfoliation If you’re new to chemical exfoliation, start slowly with a product that has a low concentration of acids and then work your way up. Some initial tingling that lasts for a few minutes after you apply the product is normal, especially if you’re new to acids. If you’re using a mild leave-on exfoliant, starting by using it twice a week is a good idea. If it’s a mild wash off one, you might even be able to use it 3-4 times per week without irritating your skin. Err on the side of caution when starting to exfoliate as despite the numerous benefits that exfoliation has to offer, overdoing it can have some unpleasant side effects. Always moisturise after you exfoliate to maintain a strong skin barrier. If your skin feels sensitive, tight or dry the next day, take a break from exfoliation till it recovers and then cut back on either the frequency with which you exfoliate or on the strength of the exfoliant that you’re using. You can use more than one exfoliant in your routine, but introduce them one at a time and avoid using them at the same time to avoid any unwanted reaction. While all skin types can benefit from exfoliation, it’s always a good idea to patch test products, especially if you’ve experienced product allergies in the past or have overly sensitive skin. Exfoliating makes your skin more sensitive to the sun so don’t forget to wear broad spectrum SPF daily. Incorporating Exfoliants From Our Range - Recommendations By Skin Type Sensitive Skin Ageing Skin | Pigmentation-Prone Skin | Dry, Dehydrated Skin Oily Skin | Acne Prone Skin Fungal Acne Prone Skin And that’s it! Here are links to the mentioned exfoliants and a table that summarises some key points for you. If you’re still confused, or have questions, feel free to reach out to us and our team will be more than happy to help! :) Hydrating Daily Gentle Shop Now Salicylic Acid Cleanser Shop Now Moisturiser Cleanser Shop Now

If you haven’t already read part 1 of this series, I’d strongly suggest reading it before you proceed. If you have though, let’s get right into it. There are two main ways to exfoliate: mechanical and chemical. Mechanical or physical exfoliation This involves using scrubs, or abrasive tools such as sponges, face cloths or cleansing brushes, to buff away the top layer of the skin. Physical exfoliation can be gentle or harsh depending on the scrub or tool used to exfoliate and the force applied while doing it. Scrubs and tools with smooth edges are gentler than those with rough edges. In the current world of physical exfoliants however, the worst ones are unfortunately, the most common. Case in point: St. Ives Apricot Scrub in commercially available options, and sugar and salt scrubs in DIY options. Sugar, salt, and crushed seeds, such as those used by St. Ives have abrasive edges that create small scratches in the skin. While usually too small to be seen with the naked eye - unless you’ve scrubbed especially aggressively - these are a form of injury, or damage, to the skin and result in inflammation. When these scrubs are used regularly, this damage accumulates leading to longer term issues such as breakouts, sensitivity and premature ageing. Abrasive physical scrubs also predispose you to chances of infection, and are able to spread infection to other areas of the skin if you already have it, as in the case of acne. If you do opt for physical scrubs however, there are some gentle options available that you can leverage instead. These include jojoba beads, ground oatmeal and peeling gels, where peeling gels are products that roll up to form scrubbing fibres when you massage them onto your skin. Plastic micro beads are a gentle option as well, but I’ve left them out of my recommendations because of their negative impact on the environment. When using physical exfoliants, always massage gently and in small circles to avoid damaging your skin. If you’re using a peeling gel, use less water to get the most out of it. While physical exfoliation imparts a lower chance of allergy or irritation if performed correctly, especially if your skin is very sensitive, it only works on the uppermost layers of the skin and doesn’t result in even exfoliation. It is also easy to mess up by for e.g., using something too abrasive, scrubbing the same area for too long and using too much pressure. Unlike chemical exfoliation, it doesn't help with acne and isn’t as effective for skin concerns such as pigmentation and skin ageing either. Physical exfoliation thus, is not my preferred type of exfoliation. Chemical exfoliation Chemical exfoliation entails the use of acids, enzymes and other similar ingredients to loosen the bonds between dead cells and allow them to shed off more easily. Chemical exfoliants work evenly on the skin and frequently also have other benefits, discussed in more detail later, beyond just getting rid of dead skin cells. They include skincare acids such as alpha, beta and poly hydroxy acids, and enzymes. A lot of people lump retinoids into the exfoliant category as well. While retinoids have the ability to speed up skin cell turnover, they are not exfoliants and do not have the ability to exfoliate dead cells from the skin’s surface. Despite their many benefits, chemical exfoliants do pose some risk if used incorrectly. It is best to be aware of these risks so you can make the most out of them. I’ll guide you around their proper use in later sections. Risks associated with the incorrect use of chemical exfoliants: Exacerbation of the skin concerns that you’re trying to treat if you don’t protect your skin from the sun while using them. Chemical exfoliants make the skin more photosensitive and must always be used with SPF. Reactions and sensitivity. Chemical exfoliants are potent ingredients. Always start slowly and build up to see how much your skin is able to tolerate to avoid an adverse reaction. Even for an experienced user the temptation to overuse them because of their immediate results can at times be hard to resist. Don’t do it however, since this won’t result in anything more than redness, sensitivity, burning and irritation. Hydroxy Acids Hydroxy acids come in many different product formats, and include alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acid (the acid here isn’t plural since salicylic acid is the only beta hydroxy acid that’s presently used in skin care) and poly hydroxy acids. Hydroxy acids are extremely effective exfoliants. They result in a visibly softer, brighter and more even complexion, often from the first use, depending on the strength of the product used. They also have antioxidant and humectant properties and help reverse epidermal and dermal markers of photoaging in the skin including pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles. They act on the skin’s surface and depending on the molecular size of the acid used, are even able to penetrate through to deeper layers of the skin. This penetration stimulates skin renewal and collagen synthesis, and speeds up skin cell turnover - something that tends to slow down as we age - resulting in skin that looks and feels younger. A study found that treating skin with AHAs resulted in a 25% increase in skin thickness, improved quality of elastic fibres and increased density of collagen. Also a hydroxy acid, salicylic acid - BHA - differs somewhat in its characteristics from AHAs. The key difference lies in the fact that while AHAs are only able to dissolve in water, BHA has limited water solubility, but is soluble in oil and thus able to penetrate into the pore where it exfoliates the pore lining and dissolves clogs. It is also antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory. These properties allow it to reduce the appearance of enlarged pores, and treat and prevent acne. It’s anti-inflammatory properties also make it beneficial for several other skin conditions, including ageing, that activate inflammatory pathways. Poly hydroxy acids (PHAs), which include compounds like lactobionic acid, galactose and gluconolactone are similar to AHAs. They also work by exfoliating dead cells on the skin’s surface but have larger molecules that aren’t able to go as deep into the skin making them less potent but gentler and more suitable for sensitive skin types that might not be able to tolerate AHAs. Like AHAs, they also have antioxidant and humectant properties, but don’t result in photosensitivity to the same degree. They also help reduce glycation in the skin, a process that involves sugar attaching itself to skin collagen and weakening it. Since PHAs are gentler ingredients, they can even be tried by people with eczema and rosacea who might not be able to tolerate AHAs Enzymes Protein digesting enzymes used in cosmetics come from fruits and vegetables. Common ones include bromelain (from pineapples), papain (from papayas), and actinidin (from kiwis). They come in wash off formats and the fruits or vegetables they come from can even be leveraged to create DIY masks provided that they haven’t been heat treated, since enzymes are sensitive to heat. Enzyme-containing products should be left off for up to 15 minutes and then washed off. Enzymes work by breaking down proteins, including keratin in the skin’s outer layers, thus helping dead skin to slough off more easily resulting in the usual benefits of exfoliation: softer, smoother skin that has more even tone and texture. Enzyme exfoliation is that it is gentle, yet effective, and tends to be safe even for individuals with sensitive skin who aren’t able to tolerate AHAs and BHAs well. However, since they’re gentler than AHAs and BHA, they aren’t as effective and give less dramatic results. Relevant products Hydrating Daily Gentle Shop Now Salicylic Acid Cleanser Shop Now Moisturiser Cleanser Shop Now

What is exfoliation? Every 1 to 3 months, a snake crawls out of it’s skin. In a process called shedding, the snake grows new skin under its old skin and leaves the old skin behind in one piece. Weird as it sounds, shedding isn’t unique to snakes. All animals shed their skin in one form or another, including us humans. In a process called desquamation, we lose about a million skin cells every single day. Desquamation and exfoliation mean the same thing, but in popular lingo, the former tends to be reserved for the natural process that’s happening on an ongoing basis, while the latter usually refers to leveraging an external tool - mechanical or chemical - to nudge the natural process along more smoothly, and that’s the distinction I’m going to stick with in this post for clarity. Here’s how it works. Our skin is made up of layers. There are three main layers: the epidermis, the dermis and the subcutis, and then there are sublayers. To understand the process of exfoliation, we need to concern ourselves with a slightly deeper understanding of the structure of the epidermis. As shown in the figure, the epidermis is the top layer of the skin and consists of 5 sublayers. The deepest one is called the basal layer, or the stratum basale, and the outermost layer - the one that is externally visible - is called the corneal layer, or the stratum corneum. The cells in the basal layer are constantly dividing and producing new skin cells. As new cells are formed they are pushed up towards the stratum corneum in a process that typically takes around four weeks. The pace of this process however, tends to slow down as we get older and is also affected in people with skin conditions like psoriasis. As skin cells are pushed up the layers, they become flatter and eventually lose their nuclei and die so the stratum corneum consists entirely of dead cells. Cells from the stratum corneum shed off constantly as enzymes present in the skin dissolve the “glue” - desmosomes - that holds them together. They are replaced by new cells that are pushed up from deeper layers. The normal process of desquamation is invisible as single corneocytes, i.e. dead skin cells , or very small aggregated units of them are shed off - we’re not snakes after all. Healthy skin, where I define healthy skin as skin that’s able to properly maintain its barrier function of keeping hydration in and irritants and bacteria out, depends a great deal on the maintenance of a healthy stratum corneum. The health of the stratum corneum in turn depends on its proper continuous regeneration and the desquamation of devitalised cells. What happens when the desquamation process goes wrong? Over the years, everything in our body undergoes change, including the skin. One of these changes involves the progressive drying out of skin, which often also results in itching. This change can at least partly be attributed to the slowing down of the natural desquamation process, and is also experienced by people whose skin has prematurely aged for example, due to excessive sun exposure. Other skin conditions, like psoriasis and ichthyosis, can also affect desquamation as can factors such as hormones, vitamin deficiencies, diet, environment, and even skincare. Impaired desquamation results in skin that is dull, as dead cells accumulate on the surface and scatter light instead of reflecting it. It also has a rough and uneven tone and texture. Impaired desquamation is also a key factor in the development of acne: since the “glue” between skin cells doesn’t dissolve properly, they shed off in larger aggregates that have a higher likelihood of clogging your pores. What is exfoliation and how does it benefit the skin? Exfoliation refers to the use of external tools and products to help remove dead cells from the skin’s surface. It benefits your skin by helping your skin’s natural desquamation process chug along more smoothly so skin conditions related to impaired desquamation, that we took a brief look at in the last section, don’t arise. In my experience, while the amount required may vary from person to person and skin type to skin type, exfoliation is an essential skincare step for anyone over puberty. It’s also the only step that has an immediate positive impact on your skin, often resulting in brighter, softer skin with more even tone and texture, from the first use. The benefits of exfoliation don’t end with this though. Here are some other benefits you can expect to experience with regular exfoliation: Exfoliating your skin helps other products work better. Dead skin cells sitting on your skin’s surface form a barrier that stops skincare ingredients from being absorbed. Removing excess dead cells and clearing out your pores allows serums, moisturisers, and other skincare products to penetrate deeper and work better. Better makeup application. Exfoliation removes dryness and flakes from the surface of the skin and evens out skin texture resulting in a smoother canvas for applying makeup. Depending on the exfoliant used, it can even treat acne. When it comes to treating and preventing acne, exfoliants are not created equal. In this domain, chemical exfoliants are better and within the broader category of chemical exfoliants, salicylic acid reigns supreme. Salicylic acid, or BHA, has the distinction of being the only oil soluble hydroxy acid used in skincare. This allows it to penetrate your pores to loosen up existing clogs and keep new ones from forming. It is also antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory. These characteristics make it extremely beneficial for individuals with acne. You can read more about incorporating salicylic acid into your skincare routine, here. Helps with pigmentation. While pigmentation is caused by excessive melanin production and is not necessarily related to desquamation, exfoliating can help with it by breaking up pigmented cells and sloughing them off. Combined with a topical agent such as vitamin C that targets melanocytes, the skin’s pigment factories, exfoliation can be especially powerful. Helps fight off skin ageing. Chemical exfoliants help speed up the rate at which skin cells are renewed, a process that as we discussed earlier, slows down as we age. They also stimulate collagen production and help reduce the rate at which collagen is broken down in the skin. These properties make it ideal for individuals looking to fight off the signs of ageing such as fine lines and wrinkles. However, before you incorporate exfoliation into your skincare routine, make sure that your skincare basics: cleanser, moisturiser and SPF are in order. SPF is especially important when you’re exfoliating since exfoliation can make your skin more sensitive to the sun resulting in an exacerbation of the conditions that you’re looking to treat. If you’re not entirely sure of whether or not your basic skincare routine is in order, check out this post on how to build a skincare routine, or get in touch with us for a free skincare consultation. In subsequent sections I’ll cover the different types of exfoliants, and I’ll give you pointers on how to incorporate exfoliation into your skincare routine for maximum effectiveness. Relevant products Hydrating Daily Gentle Shop Now Salicylic Acid Cleanser Shop Now Moisturiser Cleanser Shop Now

“Honey and humans have a history stretching back before domesticated animals, baked goods, or farms. The humans to first encounter honey over 10,000 years ago would have found it inside of a wild bee’s nest and, for some reason, decided to taste the sweet spoils. In a time when fruit was the sweetest thing they had ever tasted, honey seemed like a revelation from the gods. In the earliest centuries, nearly every culture had a myth explaining the immortal sweetness of honey,” wrote Tove K. Danovich on the Food52 blog in 2013. Honey has been part of our everyday life for at least 8000 years. We know because paintings featuring honey have been found from the Stone Age. The ancient Egyptians, Chinese, Greeks and Romans, and even the early Muslims - honey and honey bees are mentioned in the Quran - all used honey as therapy, as did the Indians where like turmeric, which I’ve previously blogged about, honey also has a special place in Ayurvedic medicine. Ayurveda practitioners use it to treat ailments ranging from digestive disorders and coughs to skin disorders, wounds and burns. While the exact composition of honey varies depending on its botanical source, honey is a supersaturated solution made by bees that reportedly contains around 200 substances. The sugars fructose and glucose comprise over 80% of the solid matter in honey, but, honey also contains amino acids, vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and fructo-oligosaccharides - a type of calorie-free, soluble dietary fibre that helps decrease blood lipid levels and stimulates the growth of non-pathogenic intestinal microflora, i.e. the good kind of bacteria that lives in our gut. Honey For Skin In the world of skincare, a key benefit of honey comes from its antimicrobial properties which it exhibits via multiple pathways. These include its acidic pH and very low water content. At less than 20% water by overall mass, honey is able to dehydrate, and retard the growth of, microorganisms that have the misfortune of getting trapped in it. Honey also contains the enzyme glucose oxidase. This turns the glucose in honey to hydrogen peroxide - an antiseptic commonly used to disinfect cuts, scrapes and burns - and gluconolactone - a polyhydroxy acid or PHA and antioxidant - in the presence of oxygen. While the concentration of gluconolactone in honey is likely too low to have much of an exfoliating effect, honey’s antimicrobial properties are potent. Research has found that honey inhibits the growth of at least 60 bacterial species, including those that cause acne and rosacea, and unlike conventional antibiotics, doesn’t result in the growth of antibiotic resistant bacteria either. One of the most studied and effective uses of honey relates to wound healing, where the types of wounds treated range from minor abrasions and abscesses to burns, bed sores and amputations. When used as wound dressing, honey stunts microbial activity, stimulates tissue regeneration and reduces inflammation. Some studies have also suggested that wounds treated with honey result in the formation of less scar tissue, but this assertion remains contested. Honey also has anti-fungal properties and common skin infections caused by fungi, including the cosmetically relevant seborrheic dermatitis, dandruff and malassezia folliculitis, a.k.a. fungal acne, have all been found to be responsive to the anti-fungal effects of honey. All three conditions are caused by the malassezia fungus, which is part of the skin’s commensal microflora. Additional benefits ensue. Honey is anti-inflammatory and unlike the corticosteroids and NSAIDs generally used to treat inflammation, honey has the added benefit of not having side-effects. Its anti-inflammatory properties combined with its ability to modulate the immune system make honey beneficial for inflammatory skin conditions like acne, fungal acne, eczema, or atopic dermatitis, and psoriasis. A study published in 2017 leveraged 14 volunteers with atopic dermatitis and found that the application of Manuka honey significantly improved their lesions. A case study by plastic surgery nurse Jeanine Harrison found honey to be effective in the treatment of severe contact dermatitis, while yet another study that had 39 participants with dermatitis and psoriasis, also yielded similar results. Honey is also thought to have anti-ageing properties that can be attributed, in part, to its high antioxidant content. Honey is rich in flavonoids, phenolic acids, ascorbic acid, tocopherols, catalase, superoxide dismutase and reduced glutathione that help fend off free radical damage. While the botanical origin of the honey determines the exact composition of these compounds in it, researchers have found that darker honey tends to exhibit greater antioxidant activity. Honey also has an acidic pH close to the skin’s natural pH and thus, helps regulate the skin’s pH to ensure optimal health and function. Lastly, and just as importantly as everything previously discussed, honey also functions as a humectant - a substance that helps keep your skin hydrated. The hydrating effect of honey comes mostly from its high sugar content, but also from the presence of amino acids and other organic acids in smaller quantities. These compounds are able to form hydrogen bonds with water and hold on to it taking you one step closer to plump, dewy, enviable skin. Given all of these benefits, we made sure that honey was a part of our range. Here are the products that you can find it in. Honey in our products Salicylic Acid Cleanser This one is a national favourite for a reason. Formulated with honey, grapeseed oil, salicylic acid, and gentle surfactants, this gentle creamy formula gently brightens dull skin, unclogs pores and fights off acne causing bacteria. You’ll notice healthier skin from the first wash. Hydrating Daily Gentle Shop Now